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First let me say thanks to all of those who offered advice on my plumbing problem. Got a friend who’s a firefighter who introduced me to another firefighter who moonlights as a plumber. He came over and had the problem fixed in about an hour and only charged me 20 bucks. Said the first guy never actually replaced anything, just gooped it up with silicone and tightened it until the gasket blew out.
Anyway, I’m thinking about installing (or having installed) a garage door opener. Here’s the problem. As the door is raised, there’only about a half an inch clearance b/w the top rail of the door and the ceiling. When the door’s fully open, there’s several inches of clearance, it’s just that first arc of the top rail while opening that comes within the 1/2 inch. Evidently there was once an opener installed (brackets on ceiling, opener control still mounted on wall) and the previous owner appears to have overcome the problem by notching a couple of inches out of the top rail. But it seems that while this may cure the clearance problem, it also serves to weaken the door right at the point that it’s being yanked on by the opener.
So, is it possible to install an opener with such minimal clearance?
Replies
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Photog,
My garage (double wide door) has a low ceiling with a Sears opener (I didn't install it, it was there when I moved in) and the top panel wheel runs in it's own track mounted above the standard track. It clears the opener rail and seats tightly against the frame when closed.
If your concern is a weakening of the top panel consider disconnecting the mounting bracket, attaching it to a length (24" to 36")of "L" steel stock (similar to what suspends the motor from the ceiling) and bolt the stock to the panel spreading out the stress. That's actually how mine is attached.
Don
*Thanks Don! I appreciate the reply and think I understand what you're saying, but I'm not sure it solves my problem. I understand (and have seen) the second track for the top panel only, but that would cause it to raise even higher than it already does...creating even less clearance. My concerns about the weakening of the top rail relate to the fact that a notch has been cut out of it to accomodate the opener rail/trolley. Any reinforcement I apply would effectively eliminate the notch, thereby bringing back the clearance problem. I guess my question is really; Is there a way to mount the opener so the top panel of the door will clear the rail/trolley? Or, is there an opener specifically designed for "zero clearance" applications? Or, is the notch in the top panel okay?
*Photog,I know what you're saying about the top track, but it seems to negate the pivot arc that interfers with the opener rail. Try a trip to Sears (or other opener store)and look at the DIY directions. As far as the steel bracing goes, the trolly bracket attaches to the door below the notch I think. The steel I recomended is mounted horizontally and should miss the notch.Don
*I recall that the commercial garage door installers have a "low profile" track system (I'm speaking here of the roller track that guides and supports the door panels). This track permits installation of doors when the ceiling level is low, and can accomodate a conventional garage door opener.You might want to contact a garage door company and at least ask about this.Anyhow, good luck... Steve
*Sears sell 'short turn" track carriages (i.e. the wheels) for such situations - I'm sure there must be solutions for other brands as well.
*Now that I've slept on it, I think all you need is a set of "low profile" brackets for the rollers on the top panel.Sorry if my earlier post was misleading... Steve
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First let me say thanks to all of those who offered advice on my plumbing problem. Got a friend who's a firefighter who introduced me to another firefighter who moonlights as a plumber. He came over and had the problem fixed in about an hour and only charged me 20 bucks. Said the first guy never actually replaced anything, just gooped it up with silicone and tightened it until the gasket blew out.
Anyway, I'm thinking about installing (or having installed) a garage door opener. Here's the problem. As the door is raised, there'only about a half an inch clearance b/w the top rail of the door and the ceiling. When the door's fully open, there's several inches of clearance, it's just that first arc of the top rail while opening that comes within the 1/2 inch. Evidently there was once an opener installed (brackets on ceiling, opener control still mounted on wall) and the previous owner appears to have overcome the problem by notching a couple of inches out of the top rail. But it seems that while this may cure the clearance problem, it also serves to weaken the door right at the point that it's being yanked on by the opener.
So, is it possible to install an opener with such minimal clearance?