im thinking about a rubber roof on my garage. the roof is flat and does pool in a small section. 14X22 is the total size. cost and easy install a must. do i need special tools?
thanks j
im thinking about a rubber roof on my garage. the roof is flat and does pool in a small section. 14X22 is the total size. cost and easy install a must. do i need special tools?
thanks j
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Hammer, screw gun, scissors and knife, paint roller with long handle, broom, caulking gun, ability to understand instructions.
Mulehide is one source for instructions
What is on it now?
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Edited 7/21/2009 4:23 pm ET by Piffin
Edited 7/21/2009 4:24 pm ET by Piffin
thanks for the reply. there is rolled roofing asphalt. because the roof has a low section in the middle it pools and then you get a slow leak. so i hope rubber would solve the problem. this would save me from ripping all the old framing and put new in. do you have an idea of material cost?
Thanks again John
you need to correct the low spot. In the past I've always ripped the original and corrected the problem first but you may be able to use a leveling compound then put your rubber roof over that. Others might find that objectionable.View Image
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Another reason he might want to get into tearing it up more is that a long time with slow leak means probably some rot to repair.
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How much puddling? how deep? what climate?general rule is no puddling for any roof. the .60 mil EPDM rubber will handle it better than others though. If not too deep it is fairly easy to shim with something in the center. You'll want to remove the old roll roofing aand use recovery board, so one option might be to remove old around edges and leave some at center , then the recovery bd over that
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you prefer glue down vs torch down? I find torch down easier and at least as good...then again I don't think I'd advise trying it unless you have someone that knows what they're doing instruct you the first time.View Image
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Torch down is not a rubber roof, it is modified bitumen, but it might be OK on a freestanding garage.But it lasts half as long as EPDM unless you maintain it with coatings every five years, whih would be a bear of a job on a roof with puddling. That puddling would also be more prone to causing a leak at seams with the torchdown modbit, moreso in freezing climates.For a novice, not a good choice, because knowing how hot toi get it under the flame takes some skill and experience. Too hot and you make it brittle and shorten the lifespan. Too cold and you do not get a good seam, and cause leaks.
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I've gotten 15 years out of my Dibiten torch down roof and counting.
White granular, NO additional coatings. Faces west and south so it does
take an exposure beating. Luv the stuff.......
You're one of the few that's had them last that long. And it's probably not as much the product as it is the installers in the numerous failures I see. I think a lot of small residential torch grade roofs get done on the side by about the 4th or 5th man down the totem pole. The flashing details are where I usually see trouble.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
"done on the side by about the 4th or 5th man down the totem pole."or a carp or DIY who's never dealt with a flat roof before and hopes to save a buck.
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You have granules instead of liquid coat to protect it from UV. The smooth bareassed stuff needs coating.Out of curiosity, what pitch?
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Barely visible, maybe 6" in 36'.
be sure to buy a pc that will cover in on piece. you don't need a seam on your first job.
when you get ready to roll it back over on the glue,use 3 guys. the center guy will be about 8" ahead of the 2 end guys. slowly roll it back onto the glue.
the older i get ,
the more people tick me off
Your roofing supply house, should be able to sell you tapered insulation board that goes on first. I don't know if that would help your low spot. Perhaps you could put a drain there.