Hi
I am installing wood brickmold style windows over exterior ply. They are M&W , no nailing flange. I was a little surprised to find that the bottom of the window has no overhang so shimming underneath creates a crack that will only be covered by trim. Seems a little strange to me to be seeing sunlight under the window after it is installed. Am I missing something here? I am sure I can seal it up tightly but it seems a little cheap compared to a window with flanges. Any tips?
HC
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
There are a number of ways to achieve a level foundation and mudsill.
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
I'm guessing that the window was designed with a sill in mind? Are these retrofit windows being used in new construction?
Tom
Since brickmmold is intended to go up against brick, th ebrick sill would take careof the gap you are questioning.
No brick? Who ordered the windows?
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
I ordered the windows after an extensive discussion with my local supplier. We went over instillation, flashing, ect. I tried to cover averything before ordering. They are supposed to be for new construction but I think this company and this model does not really designate new or replacement. Rather it is with or without brick mold. It is a cheap window so I get what I pay for, I just want to make sure it performs the best that it can.
http://www.mwwindows.com/wood/doublehung_overview.html
It is the basic wood double hung.
thanks in advance for any help.
HC
http://www.mwwindows.com/wood/wood_db_tech_drawing.htmlThey do show a sill in their drawings and they mention one in each of the three kinds of DH wood windows offered as described. It sounds to me like the order taker messed up or somebody at factory forgot this detail. Chase it back up to the top.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Thanks Piffin
For some reason I did not find that drawing before. The drawing leaves something out though. The side jamb runs flush to the bottom edge of the sill creating "horns" that the window sits on. so I have to let the window sit on my framing sill, which of course must be perfectly level, or I can shim under the horns creating a gap. As I recall the horns are actually at the same level as the front of the sill in the drawing so a 1/4" shim creates a 1/4" gap in the front. My window otherwise looks like the drawing. Getting a row of 4 window sills(framing) perfectly level and at the same level may be above my skill level so think I will just shim, create a gap and cover it with trim, and lots of lexel.
Do still think there is a problem? Please let me know.
HC
HC, we've set those type of windows here for 30 years straight since I've been in caprpentry. No problems yet. That's why I don't get that excited when someone tells me I should be vycoring every window that I set....there usually isn't anything to vycore too!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Sounds like you have a perfectly normmal window. First impression was that no sill existed. That gap is normal. The siding fits up in under the sill and closes it. From inside the spray faom seats it.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
O.K.
I just talked to MW. There may be a problem with the side jambs. Surprising to me, they want me to finish installing the windows before they send someone out to see if there is a problem.
HC
Windows of that type have always come with side horns. If it helps the position of the window the Sawzall is a wonderful tool! You just cut off the horns and drop the window onto your sill, if you can still cover above. I guess I am not seeing a problem here.
Am I missing something here?http://www.mwwindows.com/wood/wood_db_tech_drawing.htmlLooking at it is shows the screen in grove in the side and top brick mold.How do your remove the screen without removing the brick mold.I know this has nothing to do with the orginal question, but still it looked strange to me.
Probably just a sloppy drawing, Bill.
I have seen windows with t he brickmold dadoed like that all the way around. At top, the screen fits up into the dado, and then four pins are spring fed into the same dado on the sides.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!