Can anyone tell me how to best install a wood window with an integral brickmould in a wall that doesn’t have siding over its plywood. The wall is just going to be plain t1-11 with applied battens. Would you install the brickmould to the face of the studs or the face of the plywood? It seems like installing the window over the face of plywood would simplify the installation because the vertical plywood cuts wouldn’t have to be cut precisely. The problem with this installation is the plywood at the top which would need to be cut out to install z flashing. I do want to install z flashing right? Sierra Pacific, who makes the window delivers it with a moist stop flashing but I’m having a hard time deciding how to use this in conjunction with the various installation strategies. Any help is appreciated.
-Mike
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T-111 is often used as the sheathing and siding in one. Basic garages are built with it. The brickmold windows are just caulked on back of the casing when installed. Often the top of the windows are somewhat protected by the roof overhang. Owners have to keep the windows caulked. If you have sheathing on the building, you can install the windows, flash the top and cut the T-111 to fit. If your T-111 is installed plumb and the windows too, cutting straight to fit isn't a big deal. Remember, if you put the T-111 on first, you need to keep the window sill cut up higher than the rough opening, otherwise you'll have a hole under the window. Make sure you order an extra sheet or two, everybody screws up the sill cut on the first try. Leave about 1/4" slack on top of the window. This will keep the raw edge of the T-111 off the flashing and give you some elbow room to slide the sheets in place.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
So it sounds like if I have a healthy eave I might just caulk the back of the integral brickmold and slap it up? There are actually several places on this project where we could probably get away with this. I don't quite under what you're saying about sill. Are you saying that an integral brickmold isn't normally supplied below the sill?
There is no brickmold on the sill, just the top and sides. The side jambs sit on the rough framed sill. The actual window sill will set above, thereby leaving a gap if you have not left the siding up enough to close off the space. Some will just add a trim piece under the sill because cutting the siding ahead is difficult to get just right. The apron (trim) piece will be covered by the sill so it is not a hard piece to add later.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I recently asked the same question here and got no replies. I decided to do it this way.
Nice Z Flashing. It does look like you installed it with an extruded aluminum or vinyl window. The window I'm talking about is strictly wood and therefore is relying on only the z flashing ( and the eave) to handle the issue. There will be no nail fin.
-Mike
The detail is typical of Anderson windows. I think the same flashing concept would work on your window. The flashing in the pic goes through the siding above the trim.Les Barrett Quality Construction