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   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 11:50pm | #6

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   I have a cone shaped roof which will be protected with cedar shingles. Any advice on how to get the first row on, and subsequent rows after, so they arent wavy. Also, where can I find the woven undelayment designed to provide ventilation to the underside of the shingles. Thanks in advance for any advice.

   Dave

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   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 01:46am | #1

   *Creature, It is entirely possible that I have mis-understood the question.I assume you mean that you want to insure that the shingle exposure does not vary within the same course ,or from course to course.Since you will not be able to easily use a cleat on a conical roof surface,just use a roofing hatchet with a gauge. this will let you scale each shingle and gaurantees the same perfect exposure for each shingle and each course.Many guns and staplers allow you to do the same thing.If I misunderstood the question,and just explained the obvious, Forget whatever I said.Good Luck,Stephen

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   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 01:56am | #2

   *Stephen:Nope..you nailed it. Any thoughts on how to get the first course on "straight" though? Using a string line, as I would do on a straight run, to line up the first course wont work I dont think. Assuming my shingles are all the same length I could line up the top edge of the first course as I go around the circle. Sorry my post was confusing...I had just darted home between material runs to post it because it was on my mind. Thanks for the help.Dave

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   Cyrus_Miller | Mar 31, 1999 06:27am | #3

   *Story pole on a pin is one way to go, unless your conical roof is like the one I did which was one of those Craftsman Style water towers with the flared roof - you know the cone curves out at the bottom. What I did was just hook my tape on a nail at the center of the cone and measure to the bottom of the first, overhanging course, and then draw out the circle all the way around the cone for each successive course. Quick & easy, and you don't have that extra piece of wood hanging around inviting you to trip over it.

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   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 05:56pm | #4

   *Creature,The location of the butt of the shingle is the critical part ,not the top of the shingle.Gaugeing each shingle is fast and dead simple once you get used to the motion.Gaugeing each shingle from the butt means there should be no accumulated error If the first course is accurate.If the bottom edge of decking or the top of fascia is satisfactory I would consider making a simple jig to gauge the placement of the first course. All the rest of the courses will be gauged from the butt of preceeding courses(and any difference in height of shingles from bundle to bundle will be meaningless because you are scaling from the bottom)If the fascia or decking is not good enough to scale from I would strike a reference line at a convenient height to scale from.use a string or tape measure of convenient length suspended from tip of cone and draw a line all the way around the cone.Every point on this line will be equidistant from the top.a nail and a simple jig will let you scale DOWN from the reference line to the butt of the first course.All remaining courses will be gauged up from preceeding courses.A story pole will work in most cases(excluding a flared cone)but it will be much slower and more awkward than gauging with a hatchet.You can do huge roofs this way and every course will be perfect as long as the first course is perfect.Some times the simplest old fashioned tools work the best,especially in awkward or cramped positions.You can fudge the last 4 courses if you feel like it so they end evenly,by adjusting the setting on your hatchet.Or you could just make a cone shaped finial of the sheet metal of your choiceGood Luck,This project sounds like fun.I hope you are charging enough for it. Stephen

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   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 06:01pm | #5

   *Creature,I just remembered you asked about mesh.Consider the pitch of the roof.It might be more accurately decribed as a wall and the mesh may be of minimal value in this application.Good luck,Stephen

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   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 11:50pm | #7

   *Thanks all for your help. The house was built in the late 1800's early 1900's. I'll try and take some pictures of it then I'll mail them to FredL or JoeF and have them post them on here for me..LOL. Speaking of money....yes, hopefully I have the approximate 4 square cone and the 32 square of asphalt covered!! It's always much more enjoyable to know you'll make some money on a project isn't it! Thanks again guys, I'll keep you posted. Planning on late May start.Dave