Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | May 29, 2000 04:29am | #1

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   David,
   I just installed both 5" & 6" half round copper on my own house, and I soldered it much like plumbing. I cleaned (with sand paper, etc) the area well and fluxed it. I found out though that I needed a much hotter torch than a propane cylinder. i went to my plumbing supplier and rather than acetelyne (which was about $300 for the kit and the fuel) they sold me a self igniting propelyne torch. The head was $70 and the canisters (like propane cylinders) were $7.00. Having wirked with other exterior copper projects before, I found that even slight air movement can kill your heat, thus the need for a hotter torch.

   By the way, I mitered and soldered all of my corners and joints, rather than buy them. It's quick once you get the feel for working with such big copper, and even comparing my labor rates to the time I spent it was well worth it.

   If I may, how much did you pay over the cost of aluminum K-style? Here in eastern PA Al half round is comparable to galvanized, and the copper was only 29% higher, but then I had no cost of fittings or worries about the inevitable leaks. I hope this helps.

   Nathan

2. 
   David_Petric | May 29, 2000 09:36pm | #2

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   Nathan,

   Thank you very much for your feedback. There isn't a lot of knowledge out there on the subject. Copper isn't that popular (because of the cost). I am in the Catskill mountains and the winters can be harsh. Aluminum just didn't last so I took them down. I paid about $62 per 20 feet length. Fascia brackets are about $5 each and downspout $25 per 10 feet. I hope this is helpful.

   dave

3. 
   Guest_ | May 30, 2000 12:05am | #3

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   David,
   I forgot one important detail...find a way to make sure that your seams are tightly touching each other. With the mitre's I rigged up a jig with small clamps about 10 " away from the area I was working on. If not, then there won't be enough heat transfer to make a good joint.

   What oz. copper did you buy? I guess we need to establish that for comparing our prices.

   By the way, no one here knew how to do the job either. I got the info from (don't laugh) one of those thousand shows Bob Vila does. I simply experimented until I figured out the rest.

   Thanks, and I hope your holiday weekend was enjoyable.

   Nathan

4. 
   David_Petric | May 30, 2000 01:18am | #4

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   Nathan,

   Good question regarding the comparability of prices. The only thing I can find on the invoice or boxes is 5K. I presume this means 5 oz. Pretty heavy stuff. It is manufactured by Berger Brothers in Feasterville, PA. They have a website BergerBros.com. I used their stuff years ago (sub-ed the install to a old plumber why knew exactly to do) and the client is really happy.

   Did you use any special soldier? Did you use copper rack and keys to hang the downspouts?

   Just finished staining the house this weekend so it didn't seem much like a holiday. If you know anyone who is ever installing cedar siding always have them always use stainless steel nails. My house was built about 10 years ago (before stainless became popular) and the builder used galvanized. Black blotches around every nail head. Major anounts of prep-work to get it ready to stain. Hope your holiday was more relaxing.

   Thanks again
   Dave

5. 
   David_Petric | May 30, 2000 04:54am | #5

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   Just purchased "K" style copper gutter and downspouts for installation on my home. End caps, downspout outlets, lap joints and keys (for downspouts)need to be soldered. The supply house that sold it can't tell me how to install it. I've been asking around and am told I can't be sweated like a copper pipe but not much else. Am looking for a lifetime of leak-free gutters.

6. 
   Guest_ | May 30, 2000 04:54am | #6

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   Copper gutters (along with Cu flashing) are often soldered with a soldering iron, not a gas cylinder. The reason is that the thin copper can be easily overheated with the intense flame from a cylinder.

   If you choose this route, use a high-output soldering iron, not a radio shack special.