I have had the pleasure of installing drop ceilings in a few basements. I have had some struggles with everything lining up, or binding. Is there some secret in installing them in a effecient manner? What is the normal labor rate for doing them? Any suggestions would help.
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It helps if you frame the walls and soffits and they're dead on.
Straight and level mains cut never too close to bind. Using pinch clamps available from commercial ceiling suppliers to temporarily hold key pcs. of the grid. And of course, square as all get out. I'll run two mains with a couple 4' bars between, drop in a tile and have a look. Adjust from there and then rivet to wall mold. String the long run and the same with the cross. Use the pinch clips to tie off the string. Measure off these pts for the rest of the mains cuts, and assemble. A laser is sure the ticket to level it.
The instructions in some tile boxes give you good info on layout. I think the USG and Armstrong sites do the same.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Edited 3/19/2004 7:28 am ET by calvin
Thanks for info....What do you use to cut the stringers with? Do they make a cover to hide the spice cuts?
Any piece of grid can be cut with aviation snips. As far as "hiding splices", the only splices should be factory end to factory end- if you've got a main that's longer than a full length, you just click in another main, and the cut end sits on the wall angle. The joints are barely noticable.
Bob
The mains as well as all the other metal is cut as bob says with tin snips. The heavy wire, with dikes. Splices, again bob hit it on the head. From the sound of your question, read up on the info here
http://www.armstrong.com/resceilingsna/article5289.aspRemodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I think if you're having problems with the tiles binding in the grid you are not square in your installation. Many walls are not square to each other so pulling your starting points from two adjacent walls will most likely cause the grid to skew.
What I would do would be to center the pattern in the room first to locate the main runner positions. Install only one main runner to start. Then I would center the other way, using a laser with a 90* capability or the old fashioned way - 3/4/5 triangle - this to determine where the slots in the next main runners would line up square with the first. Install the remaining mains parallel to the first and snap in the spacers.
String lines or laser to level the whole contraption and drop in the tiles. Done.