Replies

1. 
   DanH | Sep 29, 2010 07:43pm | #1

   Generally you don't attempt to put posts below the frost line.  You do want the posts to be reasonably smooth, though, to prevent the "frost pull" that tends to slowly pry them out of the soil.  (And for this reason and others, concrete around the posts is discouraged, if you are using wood posts.)

1. 
   wannaknow | Sep 30, 2010 02:39pm | #2

   fence install

   I don't want to take up too much of your time, but... what did you mean by smooth wood posts, and how far down do I have to dig, and if I use mason's string and center my posts correctly is or can it be reasonably expected that we could do a good job? I can see where a lot of tradesmen overreach: we're desperate for jobs and money. But if I pull this off, I will have acquired a new skill.

1. 
   DanH | Sep 30, 2010 06:13pm | #3

   "Smooth" simply means not

   "Smooth" simply means not unnecessarily rough.  No real yes/no breakpoint, but the rougher the post the more it's apt to pull out of the ground with frost.

   Someone else probably has a good rule of thumb, but generally you go down 2.5 to 3 feet, depending on the height of the fence.

   As to whether you can do a good job, I don't know -- I've never seen your work.  But it's not rocket science, and I've seen Boy Scouts and little old ladies do a decent job.

   Dig the holes, put a little gravel in the bottom for drainage, set the post (first dip the bottom end in a coffee can of wood treatment for a minute or two) and line up the post using mason's line or a laser or whatever you have.  Backfill with soil a little at a time, tamping well with the end of a board all around the post.  Use a level on the post to check it for plumb regularly in both directions as yout backfill -- if it gets a little off pound a little harder on the backfill on one side to make it straight.

   If you want to do it up super-well you can use crushed rock instead of soil for backfill -- depends a bit on the soil type where you are.  In a few really marshy or sandy conditions it may be necessary to pour concrete, but generally it's a bad idea -- the posts tend to rock once the concrete shrinks, the concrete is subject to frost heave, and the posts rot out more rapidly.

2. 
   semar | Oct 05, 2010 05:57pm | #4

   installing fence

   Have you tried steel fence post holders - also called fence spikes.

   Available at Home Depot, cost about 12 bucks.

   the spike has an adjustable holder into which the (now shorter) fence post is screwed.

   You can use a stringline or laser to set your fence line

   Make sure the homeowner takes responsibility for the exact fence location

1. 
   calvin | Oct 05, 2010 06:43pm | #5

   If this is what you are suggesting..........

   The picture below is of a post spike from HD.  Sure, the stake goes into the ground maybe 24", but the fastening point for the post is only about 4".  

   
2. 
   mans835 | Oct 06, 2010 11:24am | #6

   Using post holders

   I think if you use post holders it is better to fix it  by a concrete, which must fill half of the hole.

   http://www.house-building-in-russia.com

1. 
   ceb | Oct 06, 2010 02:22pm | #7

   Fence Spikes

   Quick question on this topic, so its not (too much of a hijack). I want to put a fence next to the top of a wall. Wall if built of dry stack blocks and is about 4' high. It's backfilled with gravel and then soil on top of that. Do you know if I'll be able to drive the fence spikes into the gravel and if they will hold there?

   many thanks

   CB

3. 
   FenceTown | Sep 17, 2019 03:03pm | #8

   You are correct. It's about how far the cement goes down - and not really the post. Two feet of the post - and a foot and a half of gravel should do the trick.