We have finished framing our house and have started putting Typar on the outside. We started off cutting the window openning straight across the top of the RO then straight down the middle ( about 2/3rds) and then angled out to both corners. We then folded the sides and bottom edge in towards the house.
Our framer (who will be installing our windows) told us not to do it this way because a house needs to breath and he likes to nail the windows directly into the framing and then tape the window to the typar. This seems to go against what others are telling me.
What are people’s thoughts. Should I tell the framer I would like it done differently or will his method also work? If any one has pictures on the process, that would be great.
Replies
" Our framer (who will be installing our windows) told us not to do it this way because a house needs to breath and he likes to nail the windows directly into the framing and then tape the window to the typar. This seems to go against what others are telling me. "
Are you saying the framer wants to install the windows first and then the housewrap? BTW - what type of windows - wood, clad, vinyl, etc? and specifically - do they have a nailing flange around the perimeter?
As far as a house breathing, that's an ongoing debate... Old schoolers want the house to "breath" - perhaps in a haphazard - where it happens" - way. Newer thinking dictates a house sealed up tight but then controlled ventilation added in a systematic manner.
I thought in Canada, mechanical ventilation was required; a HRV or ERV?
As far as a house breathing, that's an ongoing debate... Old schoolers want the house to "breath" - perhaps in a haphazard - where it happens" - way. Newer thinking dictates a house sealed up tight but then controlled ventilation added in a systematic manner. "
Mark,
IMO, old school was not haphazard, it was uniform, ie from everywhere. Even with "controlled ventilation" new houses still get mold.....old ones rarely do.
WSJ
"Even with "controlled ventilation" new houses still get mold.....old ones rarely do."
If new houses still get mold then why is the American Lung Association recommending that peopel build airtight new homes with ventilation for their sick members. Can this many people be wrong? See http://www.healthhouse.org .
Old houses have lots of mold spores, cobwebs/dirt in the walls, dead insects in walls/attics (I even found a small dried racoon carcass in one wall). I have some photos that I must get digitized to show you what's in walls of old houses- you may not want to breath the air coming through these walls naturally!!
Edited 11/27/2005 9:30 am ET by experienced
Edited 11/27/2005 1:14 pm ET by experienced
why is the American Lung Association recommending that peopel build airtight new homes with ventilation for their sick members. Can this many people be wrong?"
EXP,
One word answer.....YES.
This is an organization made up of MD's.. I Briefly dated the sister of a girl my brother was going with (He's an MD also) She had a full scholarship to Harvard Medical, when she heard I lived in Wisconsin, she asked me what it was like living on the West Coast. No B.S.
Tag after your name and a degree doesn't make you an expert.
WSJ
Well Jon, in an indirect way, you're also saying that oft quoted Joe Lstiburek and his Building Science Corporation are not experts also (they all have degrees). Joe is co-chair of the Technical Committee for the Guidelines for the Health House program.
I have worked on/ advised on /been around airtight housing since 1977. Any houses I have been close to have had very minor problems such as the HRV not being serviced properly or being a prototype with some internal minor flaw such as a belt or motor wearing out prematurely- (which is to be expected if you're getting the first of a new model of anything.) People's health has not been a major issue; just the opposite, it has improved or been the same!!
In winter/spring, 1987, I did a research project for Canada's R2000 program which was building tighter (1.5 ACH @50 pascals) and higher insulated houses than the Building America program is doing today. The houses had to be lived in for at least 6 months and through the coldest parts of the winter to (1) determine if the HRV's were enduring the coldest winter temps without problems, (2) to test the air quality while the houses were "shut down", (3) interview occupants as to understanding the house and its systems, their health, their appreciation of the home, why did they build/buy an R2000, etc., (4) do a technical review of the home and systems. This all took about 3 hrs/house.
Of the 40 homes sampled (the total R2000 built stock in the Province of New Brunswick in 1986), no one felt their health or problems (if any) or their children's were worse. About 25% felt things were about the same, 40-50% said they felt things were better and about 20% were enthusiastic/excited about family health improvements. Everyone was surprised with the air quality, comfort and savings with the homes.
An old high school acquaintance happened to be in the study group. His wife had to be taken to hospital with breathing problems (swelling bronchial passages) at least once/twice per winter when they were living in their 1970's bungalow. She also had allergy shots every two weeks or so. By March (in the new house for 6+months), she hadn't been to hospital and had allergy shots every 1+1/2 months now!!!
I was so impressed with this information that I started to do research into air quality and healthy housing. By 1990, I was hired by an engineering firm to set up a new subsidiary doing Indoor Air Quality testing/consulting and air balancing.
I'll send you my website address privately.
Of the 40 homes sampled (the total R2000 built stock in the Province of New Brunswick in 1986), no one felt their health or problems (if any) or their children's were worse. About 25% felt things were about the same, 40-50% said they felt things were better and about 20% were enthusiastic/excited about family health improvements. Everyone was surprised with the air quality, comfort and savings with the homes
Felt?
That's not excactly science is it?
Of course they felt enthusiastic: they payed for all the "quality". Do you really think they would admit a mistake?
Blue:
Your quote: "Felt? That's not excactly science is it?"
"felt" is my word' I could've used "said" or "responded". Does that change their subjective answer to the survey questions or make it less scientific. This is what they said!!! The questions were designed not to lead the homeowners.
A funny thing happened with these homes in the first 10-15 years of the program (another small study!!)- not many of the homes were re-sold or put another way- they were turning over at much lower rate than other homes!! Why??
The people who were not forced to sell by job moves, etc. were holding on to their homes!!! They performed well. Why build another??
Would they keep these homes if there were problems especially health related with children?
By the way, the people building these early homes were subsidized by gov't to the tune of $10,000/house so that they would move to the program with little financial risk. They did not have to keep quiet about spending a lot and hiding a bad decision as you suggest.
Edited 11/28/2005 1:04 am ET by experienced
"IMO, old school was not haphazard, it was uniform, ie from everywhere. "
That's one way to look at. And it was a good way to go about it when energy was relatively cheap. Starting back in the 70s when we started paying a premium for energy people started looking at things in a different light, and now a day even more-so with many households spending as much on household energy as they do on food many builders realized that we needed to build smarter.
"Even with "controlled ventilation" new houses still get mold.....old ones rarely do."
I agree 100% with that statement, but the next question is why - and I say the fundamental answer is improper exterior weatherproofing of the building envelope, which is what this thread is about. Sure, we can go down any number of rat holes about vapor barriers, house wrap/felt, ventilated this/unventilated that, etc, etc, but the bottom line is that with tighter houses, exterior water leaks can't dry quickly and cause mold. And, by the same token, interior point load moisture sources need to be dealt with using controlled ventilation. Very tight houses also need the induction of exterior fresh air, often through the forced air HVAC system.
Really though, as a matter of truth in disclosure, any builder who builds an old-school 'well ventilated' home has a responsibility to their potential clients to make it fully known that that is what their building philosophy is. If nothing else, it results in a less $ per sq ft house.
Other than that, the challenge is to build a modern fuel efficient house for a reasonable price that isn't going to self destruct. It's called value with longevity.
"I agree 100% with that statement, but the next question is why - and I say the fundamental answer is improper exterior weatherproofing of the building envelope, which is what this thread is about. ..............
......, any builder who builds an old-school 'well ventilated' home has a responsibility to their potential clients to make it fully known that that is what their building philosophy is. If nothing else, it results in a less $ per sq ft house."
Actually it costs more to use 1 x 6 t&g to sheath than ply or OSB.
WSJ
Yes, the framer says that he would like to install the windows first, before we put on the house wrap. We will be using vinyl windows and Hardi Plank. We were going to flash the top of all the window trim. Thanks for your input.
Hard to get a simple answer around here, isn't it? Anyway:
"the framer says that he would like to install the windows first, before we put on the house wrap."
It won't be a problem. Might even be better done that way, although I'd think it would be a PITA when you are rolling out the housewrap and the windows are in the way. He hard to get the house wrap tight.
The only caveat would be that the house wrap will need to cut back about 1/2 the width of the nailing flange so the flashing tape will adhere to the nailing flange as well as the paper itself.
Hey Mark, thanks for your input. My framer did say he wanted to cut the house wrap back so the tape would adhere. We tried to get as much of the house wrap on before the windows came because we realized that it would be much easier for us. As it turned out we have all the windows in and 3/4 of the house wrap on. It looks as though we will be able to incorporate many of the ideas given to us here and hopefully find out in the end they all work fairly well as long as you stick to the right principals.
Jody
The framer read the installation instructions to these windows? Have you?http://www.shelladditions.com
I can't say that I have, but the next time I'm out there I will.
I'd say yer doing it right, I would make a "stickman" type cut out..Vee from top and bottom , meeting a vertical in the center, wrap around the jacks and header and sill and staple it up INSIDE, the cut off excess.
But I could be wrong.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" Nie dajê siê olœniæ statkami parowymi i kolej¹ ¿elazn¹. Wszystko to nie jest cywilizacj¹. - Francois Chateaubriand (1768 - 1848) "
There was an article either in JLC or FH a couple issues back about installing flanged windows. The author made a good point about leaving the wrap loose at the header so you can get the top flange under the wrap. The method adds a few extra minutes per window but if you think like a raindrop it makes sense.
I remember that now. I don't use housewrap ( log home here) so I shoulda kept my mouth shut. I was just recalling how we did it when I did use it in new const ( a long time ago).
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" Nie dajê siê olœniæ statkami parowymi i kolej¹ ¿elazn¹. Wszystko to nie jest cywilizacj¹. - Francois Chateaubriand (1768 - 1848) "
Ever heard of Tybark, for log homes I think (ha, I couldn't resist). Time for another piece of pie.
Happy Thanksgiving.
LOL...good one! Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" Nie dajê siê olœniæ statkami parowymi i kolej¹ ¿elazn¹. Wszystko to nie jest cywilizacj¹. - Francois Chateaubriand (1768 - 1848) "
DuPont's directions agree with you.
We routinely have a work crew from the Tyvek Department at our HfH sites (Dupont's corporate headquarters are in town, and they donate our Tyvek).
The folks who sell and represent this product for their living will tell you to make the stickman type cut, wrap and staple back onto the inside, trim excess from inside. Caulk the back sides of the window flanges, install window, then tape the flanges with Tyvek tape.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
So have you ever asked them why the recommend going against all good flashing practices?You can still caulk the flanges and wrap the opening with Tyvek tape of you lap the Tyvek over the flange.
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
The Tyvek work crews contend that by 1) cutting and wrapping the excess Tyvek material into the opening and on around the header, jacks and sill and 2) applying a continuous caulk bead around the window flange and 3) fastening the window in place. You have produced a superior seal to any other method with their product.
The "flashing" component of Tyvek installation is handled by their tape applied to the flanges of the window after installation, preferrably a double overlapping width.
They will admit ("off the record" of course) that Grace I&W strips will also do a nice job when applied in the standard bottom - sides - top sequence. HfH here has done both methods w/o problems - always vinyl siding for finish.
Just passing on what the factory reps say. Keep in mind when they are on HfH sites here - all of the windows are solid vinyl with a continuous molded flange.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Jim,Just out of curiousity, I found the Tyvek instructions on the Dupont site.
http://construction.tyvek.com/pdf/K02107HRBeforeInstall.pdf
The .pdf shows cutting the top piece horizontally and lapping it over the window flange is installed.I'm glad this is what they recommend because I would continue to install this way even if it was against the manufacturers specs.Kinda makes you wonder about the Tyvek reps, doesn't it?
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
I just read Dupont's Tyvek installation manual (Thanks Jon). Am curious though, what is everyone using to "caulk" between the jambs and the RO these days. Seems like stuffing fiberglass into the crack has gone out of favor. I try to use low expansion foam whenever possible lately, but still use fiberglass from time to time when the gap between the RO and the unit is to tight to fit the tube from the foam gun. Anyone using anything else?
Henry,I think the caulk you're referring to goes behind the nailing flange against the sheathing/housewrap. The fg or foam is installed between the jamb and RO.I, like you, prefer to use foam and use fg if necessary.
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Yeah, caulking behind the flange is pretty standard. My question was in reference to Step 12 in Dupont's installation manual (interior detail).
Henry,I apologize, I didn't see that part.That is a strange recommendation. Like you, I'll stick with insulation to reduce air infiltration.
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
If I understand your question I think a good option is backer rod. It's spaghetti like foam that comes in different diameters, say maybe 1/4" up to 1" that you use to stuff the cracks. I've tried using the low expanding foam but found it somewhat cost prohibitive, but more importantly very messy to work with (at best) - probably better for owner/builder type projects where budgets are more relaxed and "free" labor is available.
Jon,
Obviously their procedure has changed, can't remember if the Tyvek crew has been out in 2005 - techies will undoubtedly be promoting their new procedure.
Note 2004 revision date at end of DuPont .pdf - it's at the end of the fine print.
If there is one thing I have learned in this business - follow the manufacturer's directions or you're always on your own if there is a problem.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
> So have you ever asked them why the recommend going against all good
> flashing practices?Partly because Tyvek isn't flashing, I would guess.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
Dan,While I agree that Tyvek is not to be used as a primary flashing why would you install it in a way that is counter to ALL sound building practices?
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
If the Tyvek is properly taped, and especially if you use a membrane product, going to the extra trouble to lap it outside the top flange is a waste of time, in addition to introducing a potential air leak at the corners.I mean, if you really think the Tyvek should be routed that way, why not the facing on the FG insulation, or the poly VB on the inside? Where do you stop?I'll agree that when you use thick paint instead of siding you need additional drainage considerations, especially in an area likely to experience a lot of windblown rain, but that's not what Tyvek is designed for.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
"If the Tyvek is properly taped, and especially if you use a membrane product, going to the extra trouble to lap it outside the top flange is a waste of time, in addition to introducing a potential air leak at the corners."What kind of membrane product are you referring to? Do you mean like vycor for sealing the windows? If so, I can see you point that the chance of a leak is significantly reduced but does it really take that much more time to lap the housewrap over the flange?"I mean, if you really think the Tyvek should be routed that way, why not the facing on the FG insulation, or the poly VB on the inside? Where do you stop?"Who says I don't lap my poly vapor barriers shingle style? I even put drip cap over interior doors. One can never be too safe."I'll agree that when you use thick paint instead of siding you need additional drainage considerations, especially in an area likely to experience a lot of windblown rain, but that's not what Tyvek is designed for."Dan, I guess this is where we differ. I believe that Tyvek's primary purpose is a secondary drainage plane. The air infiltration benefit (which many consider dubious at best) is secondary. If you look at the Tyvek section of Dupont's website I think you will note that they feel the same.You must feel that siding is watertight, so I guess we'll have to agree to disagree.Out of curiousity, if you build a house what would you put behind the siding?
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
When I resided I put Tyvek behind the siding. Made a world of difference in inflitration.If you want a secondary rain barrier there are better products than Tyvek, but few (if any) that are better as an infiltration barrier.In my neck of the woods the infiltration barrier is the most important aspect of a housewrap. Of course, I don't have vinyl.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
Are you saying to wrap the tyvek above the window into the opening around the bottom of the header??
That is how we USED to do it when I was a framer in the late 80's, I guess if I was confronted with it now, I'd lean towards the "lap the upper flange" method...but in reality, I wont ever rely on tyvek, typar or 30lb felt to substitute flashing and proper siding details.
On my house, the areas I have new walls ( not log) have strips of window wrap tape ( vycore, I guess) that I applied over the flanges..I also caulked the flanges wit Lexel first...then 30lb felt over the tape..then my trim will have a cap ( copper of course, thanks Grant) and siding.
I'll be using wood trim with Hardie Plank siding, I am not impressed with hardie trim stock I have seen...and copper flashing is as good as it can get in my book, so the whole issue of tyvek is a non issue for ME.
I guess if I had a new job tomorrow, I'd weigh the budget, time, and TPTB in charge's input and go from there..I don't see anything written in stone in this debate..all preference of the installer. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" Nie dajê siê olœniæ statkami parowymi i kolej¹ ¿elazn¹. Wszystko to nie jest cywilizacj¹. - Francois Chateaubriand (1768 - 1848) "
I just can't fathom putting the top flange over the wrap. That don't make no sense no how.
I have seen a zilion windows done that way, and never a problem because of it...doors w/ brick moulding? yep. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" Everything looks like a nail, to a hammer"
Ya oughta have a z bar over the door.
Zbar and counter , kerfed into my log. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" Everything looks like a nail, to a hammer"
I just wanna jump in here and say that I agree with following window manufacturer's instructions.
installing wood clad vinyl windows here in eastern north carolina we do exactly what was originally questioned, cut back tyvek, and caulk vinyl flanges directly to OSB sheathing, then tape (from bottom up) to tyvek with an EDPM window tape, as per manufacturer's instruction
Here's some info from JLC.
http://www.boardwalkbuilders.com/pages/art/art8.htm
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks so much for referring me to this article on the do's and do not's of housewrap. Pictures sure make things a lot clearer for us first timers. Thanks to you I saw a problem with one part of our installation that is not too late to change, and good ideas for other areas -- a big thanks.
Think like a drop of water - where will you go?
The method you describe fits the method in JLC a few months ago. I think there's probably several different acceptable methods, but having wrap and tape at all is usually a good thing. I am watching a commercial building (a restaurant) being constructed right now that is wrapped in Tyvek, and the crew simply 'X' cut the window openings. I can't imagine this particular contractor bothering to use tape or caulk or anything else, I think they just use the Tyvek because "it's standard practice".
If anybody's read that JLC article, do you see anything wrong with it?
Read the install instructions for your windows, generally they cover issues with housewrap.http://www.shelladditions.com
Well there is a thought. Thanks
Well, your framer's nuts if he thinks that tyvek tape over the flanges of the windows constitutes flashing. It doesn't. Please get and read the JLC article from a few months ago about installing flanged windows.
I personally use the method shown and when using Tyvek I cannot improve on it. It is essential to have and use FlexWrap, and also either their Straight Flash, or Grace Vycor.
I thought that house wrap does breath. Isn't it supposed to work like Gore-tex. Vapors pass and liquids don't? Otherwise I'd think houses would be wrapped with plastic sheeting.
My feelings exactly, that's why I questioned my framers comments from the start.
I looked at the Typar website. They say to follow the installation recommendations of the window manufacturer. That is good advice. Typar also has some statements about using their construction tape around the windows. This alone is not a good solution unless you live in the desert.
Always install the flashing, building wrap and window so the water goes, "down and out", in other words "weatherboard." I have seen houses with the siding removed after only 5 years with damage ranging from stains to severe dry rot from water entering around a poorly flashed window. Follow the window manufacturer instructions closely. They typically require that you use adhesive backed flexible flashing to essentially extend the window fin about 9 inches. The new ASTM and AAMA standards also require a bead of caulk on the back side of the window fin.
Another problem is with windows themselves. About 10 to 20% of window frames leak. Vinyl windows are often fused together at the corners. This "weld" often breaks during shipping, handling, and installation. All windows have some kind of joint at the corners that may leak. This is a good reason to run flashing material or the house wrap into the framed opening on the sides and the bottom. Some builders put a strip of lath on the bottom of the framed opening, toward the inside, and flash over it to create a dam that forces water to go out, rather than in.
The most common construction defect is leaking windows due to improper flashing.
Take a look at how the flashing is done (according to the Building Sciences approach) in this Photo Essay, starting with image 103:
Delores House
Delores house shows pellas and certainteeds install instructions. Im sure many other window manufacturers are this by now. Good pictorialhttp://www.shelladditions.com
I think it must have been pointed out here already, but if Pella's instructions are not followed, the warranty is invalid. I suppose this is in the fine print of the warranties of most othe makers, too.In my experience, many tradesmen like the framer referened in post no. 1 think they know the right way to do it, but they have not necessarily read either the maker instructions or the warranty fine print, so IMO they should not be trusted to make implementation decisions in such a crucial area. It must be done by the book, not according to the bonehead logic of some person who cannot or will not read.
Guess I posted too quick on those pictures, they exceed Pellas install instructions. I install a lot of windows but always by the manufacturer's instructions. You can't generically say how to install tyvek or flash windows. I believe you're right on that talking dog, in fact I would bet if it came down to it, any warranty is void if not installed per instructions. the real question is what liability do you assume if you flash better than installation instructions and there is a problem.http://www.shelladditions.com
Can someone explain to me why the tyvek isn't tucked over the flew wrap in 110?
Couldn't water get in behind the flew wrap and then get into the framing?
Could someone explain to me how a window manufacture can void their window warranty on their windows if the wrap isn't done the way they want it? Are they warrantying the wrap, or the window? If the crank won't crank, will they tear out the window to check the wrap?!!!
Do you really think that a window company would give you something if water was getting in behind their flanges if you did the wrap the way they want? I can tell you that they wont. They'd just tell you that their window is good and your wrapping has a problem....because it has NAIL HOLES IN IT!
You guys crack me up.
If you are letting water get behind the siding, you ought to turn in your builder's licenses!
blue
Blue:
"If you are letting water get behind the siding, you ought to turn in your builder's licenses!"
With wind above 50+ mph and horizontal driven rain, you can't stop it. That's why up here in Canada, we now have the rainscreen being required in some building codes- Stop most of the water with the siding and drain that which gets behind properly. We've been using the rainscreen with brick veneer for about 100 years now. That's why masons leave every second/third vertical brick joint open at the first row of brick- to drain water, not for anything else!
Around here a rainscreen is pretty much standard practice these days, no matter how waterproof the sheathing. Too bad the flashing methods are not up to the level of Delores house.
There was a 4 page insert in the journal of Light Construction about 6-7 years ago for installing windows and doors in areas with wind driven rains such as the Atlantic seacoasts. It was actually taken from a 220 page manual written by a group of architects in northern CA fro installing windows and doors. My, My!! How complicated can it be?????
VERY!!!!! The 4 selected pages covered windows/doors in regular residential sidings such as wood/vinyl (2 pages) and stucco (2 pages). It entailed using "Ice and Water Shield" or similar as flashing up to 18" out from the Rough Stud Opening, the flange was set into caulking on the flashing and the head flashing/drip cap was slipped into the slit in the building membrane at the top and then sealed with sheathing tape.
Our housing agency, CMHC, improved on the sill plate detail by showing a beveled drainage piece to direct water to the exterior. A piece of 6" wood clapboard covered by the bottom flashing would be sufficient. They now have a series of better flashing details for different types of buildings.
With wind above 50+ mph and horizontal driven rain, you can't stop it. "
EXP,
No different than what my "loose" 1920's (t&g, balloon framed) house in Wisconsin which sits high atop a hill surrounded by ~400 acres of open land is exposed to.
Now I rehabbed the ENTIRE structure down to the studs.
What was interesting, was in places where water entrance was evident, it was always dry, and their were never any signs of mold.
OH, BTW our heating bills are on par with most "tight" new construction ~$140./month when it goes down to -25F, -80F/wind chill.
WSJ
"What was interesting, was in places where water entrance was evident, it was always dry, and their were never any signs of mold."
Before you took it apart, it was a sieve and the heat and air moving through the walls dried out the spots that evidently got wet. WIth insulation in the walls and maybe a semi-tight vapour barrier, will it still be leaking enough heat and air to dry sufficiently?? By the sounds of your low heating bills, you must have had a large reduction of air leakage since it is usually 20-40% of an older home's heat loss.
"OH, BTW our heating bills are on par with most "tight" new construction ~$140./month when it goes down to -25F, -80F/wind chill."
Something doesn't compute here!! Any energy efficient home builder (and there are 1000.s out there now) will tell you that air leakage control is critical to getting a low heating/cooling energy bill. Either you have real cheap fuel costs, use low heating temps, have a GSHP, have a small house, solar exposure or something. How many million BTU's do you purchase or gain each year? Dollars don't really tell you how efficient the house is and doesn't allow you to compare it to others easily.
For example: In our area with 7,600 degree days, I heat 2,600 sq ft (2 storey with full basement) with a combination of wood and electric. I purchase $100-$150 of wood (hard or soft) each year and use electric for the rest of our heat needs as we have essentially no solar gain (I didn't build the place). My heat bills run $300-$350/year with the bedrooms, while unoccupied, running a bit cool since the wood stove is in the basement family room. A small air exchanger (about 30-40 cfm)with no heat recovery runs 24 hours from mid Nov to May. If I had heat recovery, I might save another $100 or so each winter. What can I compare my house to?
Before you took it apart, it was a sieve and the heat and air moving through the walls dried out the spots that evidently got wet"
EXP,
Correct, vs the alt......mold?
Something doesn't compute here!!
Lots of thermal breaks, high R foam [board], and careful selective cauking. Already torn out some of what I did 15 years ago, and everthing looks great.
WSJ
Isn't the Flex wrap itself in picture 110 redundant? It's an extra layer of security but this installation is not necessarily going to leak if you left it out and went with just the Tyvek--isn't that right? (I think the specification for the flashing on the Delores house came from the Building Sciences website--it's a little essay in how to do things the Building Sciences way)
Wow, they make putting in a window a lot more complicated than I ever dreamed. Great pictures, they will also come in handy for other areas of construction that we need info on. Thanks!