Installing new windows in old farm house
We are tearing out old wodden sash window and installing new Anderson windows in a 250 year old stone farm house. The walls are 18 inches from the interior wall to the exterior stone edge. What is the recommended strategy for creating a rough frame opening and exterior finish trim?
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Replies
Wow, there is room for a lot of variables there.
in general, you want to isoalte framing lumber from direct contact with masonry.
You will probably need some glue and Tapcons to anchor the frame lumber to the masonry.
old mortar will be fragile, so judgement is called for.
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Thanks, Piffin. Will study your suggestions and let you know.
B
I've done similar in old tripple-width solid brick walls. I install the window in the opening snug with plastic shims. Foam it all around. Apply brick mold (or molding to match existing) on the exterior (Azek or equivalent if you can get a match), glued-on jam extensions and interior trim into nailing blocks. The trim pretty much holds it in place. I don't fasten the window directly to the masonry except for the foam unless there are existing, still usable, nailing blocks in the masonry. The trim is primarily what holds it in place.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
Thanks, Mike. Will study your suggestions and follow.
We saw an example where the carpenter extend the trim an inch or so beyond the edge of the stone then caulked the gap between the wood and stone. It seems as if this achieved 3 results:
1. The frame/trim look fitted while avoiding scribing.
2. Directed the water away from window/stone.
3. Created a drip edge.
Familar and make sense?
Thanks
Brandywyne
No. None of this makes sense to me at all for a 250 year-old farmhouse. Sorry.
If the windows are truly 'shot' why not use sash-only replacements, like painted wood Marvin tilt-paks? Andersen windows won't look right in an old structure like this.
Are you changing the plane of the windows? Why? What are the existing trim conditions, what is 'unusable' vs. 'repairable'?
Can you post a photo? Are you in Brandywine PA? Location (if not)?Jeff
Edited 6/6/2009 12:27 am ET by Jeff_Clarke
I really wondered about why Andersens for this type building myself.
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Jeff,
Thanks for your feedback. Yes, we live on the Brandywine River near West Chester, PA.
Will review your feedback with our contractor. When we disassemble a window, will take phot.
Noted on the andersons.
S
From my experience with 18th century windows, it is about the same cost to repair, reglaze (with present glass) and weatherstrip them as it is to buy new (Marvin wood sash replacements). You do end up with single-pane, but can deal with interior storms if the goal is (usually) to preserve the exterior appearance.
I would certainly not move the plane of window as suggested (if that's what you are suggesting).
Jeff
Thanks, Jeff. Will study your suggestions.
S