installing outside light fixture
I’m uncertain of the proper way to install some exterior light fixtures–specifically, how to install the junction boxes (I know how to do the wiring).
To give you a better idea of what I’ve got, here are some pictures:
This is the block where the fixture is mounted–the material is 3/4″ “Prime Trim,” a manufactured wood product that is extremely dense and hard.
And here’s the junction box I have–based on what I understood from my electrician, who wired the house, I want to use these metal “pancake” boxes in this exterior application:
This is the light fixture:
How do I inset the metal box into the block? My first instinct was to get a hole saw the same diameter as the box…but how would I fasten the box to the block?
I take it that the goal here is to make sure the wire nuts are completely surrounded by metal and in case of an overheating situation they cannot somehow ignite the block (I doubt Prime Trim burns very well, but may as well do this to code just to be safe). Any suggestions welcome.
Replies
I'm no electrician, but my understanding for using the pancake box is to surface mount it, i.e. simply screw it to the block.
If you want to inset it and have the depth, use a deeper box with mounting fins/brackets which i turn sit flush with the block.
The method that I would use is to cut a hole the size of the box on the finish material, only as deep as the box is. This leaves the wall sheathing below that to mount the box to. Then you can mount th e fixture normally. If you try to mount the box on the surface of the finish material, you will probably end up pinching the wires between the edge of the pancake box, and the fixture shell, thereby setting yourself up fo a short in the years to come.
locolobo
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Pancake boxes are only for single wire terminations. You have more than one light fixture on the same circuit, so you need a deeper box. Get a waterproof box and surface mount it.
for those wires you need a metal "work box".. you trace it on the GPPT block, then cut it out with a jig saw.
you will cut thru the block and thru the sheathing... then you mount the box, a straddle bracket, and the fixture
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you can foam behind the box and caulk the box in the block..
the surface of the work box will be flush with the surface of the PrimeTrim block
if it were one wire, you would do the same thing with the pancake box , only use a hole saw and only go thru the PrimeTrim
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 9/11/2006 7:47 am ET by MikeSmith
What about something like this.
http://www.aifittings.com/whnew49.htm
And they make a number of different products that can be used for this type of application.
But some include there own mounting blocks.
http://www.aifittings.com/k_6.htm
http://www.aifittings.com/whnew4.htm
http://www.aifittings.com/whnew13.htm
http://www.aifittings.com/whnew45.htm
http://www.aifittings.com/k_4.htm
http://www.aifittings.com/k_2.htm
http://www.aifittings.com/k_1.htm
http://www.aifittings.com/whnew24.htm
http://www.aifittings.com/whnew25.htm
Thanks for the responses. Mike, your "work box" sounds like just the ticket. What shape are those usually? I'll see if I can pick one up tomorrow or this weekend.Prime Trim cuts awful hard, doesn't it? Last time I cut a piece with a hole saw it was literally smoking hot (the hole saw was sharp and I was not using excessive pressure on the drill).
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