I just ordered 1200 lf of Trex and 1000 Eb-Ty’s. I’ve never used either. I have to do a 12×12 deck, two balconies, and 30 stair treads with a few landings.
Any tips? Especially tricks for hidden fasteners on stair treads and picture-framed deck boards?
“This is a process, not an event.”–Sphere
And I’m a legitimate certifiable Tool Whore.–Dieselpig
Replies
bump
yer gonna have to type slow for me and maybe switch to a crayon.-buck '07
I never had a problem with character,
people've been telling me I was one ever since I was a kid.
First tip,,,,don't use regular deck screws. They cause trex to do what my guys refer to as "mushroom".....part of the material forms a dimple on top of the screw and it looks horrible. There are screws made specifically for composite decking and it does not do that. They have them for the superdrive strip screw gun if you happen to have one of them....but they aint cheap. Spacing needs to be done as per manufacturer....which I have seen very few people do. The trex website http://www.trex.com has a whole section of installation info.
Sam
Never used eb-ty - the last trex I put down was with a metal angle screwed onto the joist. You would then screw it from the underside. If you do have to face screw the trex, as I think you will with the treads, I recommend countersinking - works much better. There is a screw designed for trex. I think they are called Grab-eze - they come painted in trex colours and they have two different threads that suck the board tight to the joist.
"...I think they are called Grab-eze ..."I think you are referring to TrapEze. They have slightly smaller heads and a set of left-hand threads on the shank portion to drag the mushroomed Trex material down below the surface. The result is a lot better than Deck Mate et al.BruceT
In any situations where you have to attach the boards with screws through the face of the material, use the special screws that are made for it. These screws are supposed to do the job without "mushrooming" the material, but I found that it was necessary to pre-drill the boards to get a really good result.
George Patterson, Patterson Handyman Service
Thanks guys. I've used the double-threaded screws on Azek and they do work well. Since the Trex is denser I can see that pre-drilling makes sense.
I think I'll look into the angle-iron attachment for the stair treads.
"This is a process, not an event."--Sphere
And I'm a legitimate certifiable Tool Whore.--Dieselpig
I have had good luck using the Trap-ease screws designed for composite decking without the need to pre-drill.
Used them both in collated quick-drive format as well as singles driven in w/ a normal screwgun.
Another vote for Trap-ease where the hidden fasteners won't work.
Hey woodguy,
If I'm not mistaken Eb-ty requires a slot in the edge of the Trex which the Eb-ty slips into, I think you can get Trex with this dado already cut from the factory , but I'm not positive......If you're stock doesn't have it you'll be spending a significant amount of time cutting slots (using a biscuit joiner),.....the tough part is remembering to do the leading edge of the next piece before you set it into position.... it has you jumping from one side to the other waaaaay to much(IMHO) .....might consider Tiger Claw or some other brand that does not require slotting OR set up a system that you can pre-cut the slot before the decking hits the frame, it'll save a lot of time and handling... hope this helps.
Geoff
Thanks Geoffrey, that's a great point. I'll email my salesman right now to see if we can get it pre-slotted!
"This is a process, not an event."--Sphere
And I'm a legitimate certifiable Tool Whore.--Dieselpig