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Seems to be two schools of thought among the people I work with. One bunch shims, checks for level and square, then nails through the flange, avoiding slots provided for this purpose (they claim nails tend to skate around the framing and wind up in the gap between the window and the trimmer).
The other group screws through a slot in one of the side flanges, then levels, then scews off the rest of the window (no shims). I can see advantages to both methods, but am just curious where others might come down on this.
Any input is appreciated.
DS
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The slotted nail holes are provided to allow for expansion and contraction.
*Drake, what Matt said,absolutely!! There's always a chance you could"overfasten" the windows and then when the sun heats them you could (not defintely, but could)get some distortion, or tearing in cold weather,if the nails can "skid" around the trimmer stud then these guys are framing their R.O.'s too big,that's why you don't see too many vinyl windows shimmed, the opening is so tight and with the need to "float", the large diameter of the roofing nail-head helps keep the window in place. Good Luck .....Geoff
*We always shim the bottom. Directly under any vertical members. If you don't, those things can sag pretty easily. And I agree completely about the elongated holes. On anything over 5 ft wide, I go inside, drill a slightly oversized hole (or two) up through the jamb and insert a screw through it. The oversized hole lets the header move up and down without moving the jamb, but holds the jamb in the same plane as the wall. - jb
*Thanks very much for these tips...can't wait to see these guys hash it out during our own breaktimes! DSPS I just do what I'm told, usually, so this is a really great place to gather opinions!