I am looking to put a new yellow pine floor over an existing pine subfloor (1×4 or 6 from 1870 or a later renovation.) What would be the best way to lay the new floor over this existing subfloor that is fairly level. Any help would be great. I have the wood setting in the house for about one month. Thanks in advance for your helpful advice.
Mark.
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I'd make very sure all the old nail heads were down, and might even go to the trouble of screwing the old subfloor down to the joists with deck screws and an impact driver. Easy to do now, hard to do later
Then a layer of 15# tar paper and nail away with the floor nailer. Make sure to leave a half-inch or so at all walls for expansion. Don't let the tarpaper roll hit finished walls - it will leave a black mark!
Localized low spots can be built up with layers of the 15# paper.
New flooring should go perpendicular to the old subfloor, unless it's diagonally laid, in which case you can take your pick.
Forrest
I am thinking with hot & humid weather we are having here in the northeast I should be installing my yellow pine floors tight at the tounge and goove. Am I correct? Thanks for any help
I would put it down tightly now.
Good luck -
Forrest
SYP is one of the less stable flooring woods, so I do everything I can to make darn sure it is dry when it goes down.If all you have done is place it in the house in full stacks, you still need to open it, sticker it, run a fan and AC or dehumidifier until you have it in the 9-11% range of moisture content.
Then nail it tight.
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Do you think it makes sense to leave room for extra expansion with the SYP?Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
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Never with that or white pine. They are soft enough that if the wood ever does try to expand it just bruises the fibres but stays laying flat in situations where oak would yank itself right up off the floor from trying to swell from moisture.
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Is there a rule of thumb for when to use felt paper instead of red rosin paper? Just a matter of preference?Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
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I have heard from over on heating help, "the Wall" , that if you have or plan on install radient floor heat, tar paper could be a problem. Some tar paper could out gas and smell up the house.
They suggested throwing a piece in the oven and heat it up to see what you get.
But this is only with the radient floor heat, which in my case applied to be.
Just a thought to keep in mind.
I tend to use the tar paper on 1x subfloor, and red rosin on plywood. I guess I feel that the tar paper is a little thicker to help any height variations in the 1x, and it's more "cushioney", if that's even a word.
Just my preference.
Forrest
Tar paper will ultimately last longer than red rosin paper. Now is ultimately a concern? The one down side of tar paper I can imagine is in a fire, but that seems like a pretty small reason.What are you going to finish the SYP with? I have heard shellac is a good choice, and certainly was a common choice a 100 years ago.