FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe

In every issue you'll find...

  • Expert insights on techniques and principles
  • Unbiased tool reviews
  • Step-by-step details to master the job
  • Field-tested advice and know-how
Subscribe Now!
Subscribe
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
  • Join
  • Log In
Subscribe

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Insulating attic space

| Posted in Construction Techniques on November 14, 2002 02:39am

In converting an existing attic space to a master suite, the question has come up as to weather to 1. insulatie between the floor joists from the eaves to the knee walls, up the knee walls and then between the rafters to the peak or 2. insulate between the rafters from eaves to peak (with baffles fo cource).  Any advice?  Also, should the existing blown in between the floor joists be removed, or leave as a “sound barrier”?

Reply

Replies

  1. User avater
    Mongo | Nov 14, 2002 04:42pm | #1

    I prefer to see the entire attic space brought into the envelope of the house...meaning insulate the rafters from eave to peak.

    This will allow you to use the space behind the kneewalls for storage...either via small access doors, or from drawers build through the kneewall. You could also put mechanicals in the kneewall should that be neccessary.

    I'd leave the insulation that's between the joists alone.

    New house? Old house? Quality of current building envelope? Ensure that your basement is somewhat tight before you cap the top of the house's envelope.

  2. User avater
    Mongo | Nov 14, 2002 04:50pm | #2

    I was going to edit my previous post to add this link, but it hasn't been released by the censors yet, so...here you go:

    http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=1516.1

  3. Scooter1 | Nov 14, 2002 09:40pm | #3

    Where do you live?

    Regards,

    Boris

    "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1927

    1. wwilmer | Nov 14, 2002 09:56pm | #4

      Washington DC area.  The house is approximately 50 yrs old, appears well built and well insulated in the walls and attic area.

  4. Ragnar17 | Nov 15, 2002 05:29am | #5

    Billy,

    I agree with Mongo that you should go ahead and insulate so that the storage spaces are more or less conditioned space.  It makes for a much nicer storage area.

    I would recommend looking into Icynene foam.  It's sprayed on, and is an expanding foam.  Vaulted ceilings are a great application for Icynene, since it DOES NOT require stand-offs for ventilation -- therefore, you won't need eave or ridge vents, either.  You can just have it sprayed right on the roof sheathing, and then rock the interior.

    I did it this way on my house, and avoiding the venting issues saved me a ton of time (and money).  In Seattle, I paid about $1.50 per square foot for 4" thick coverage, and about $2.00 per square foot for 6" thick coverage, including labor.

    Ragnar

    1. wwilmer | Nov 19, 2002 05:06pm | #6

      Thanks for the advice!  I'll  be looking inot that.

      1. NormKerr | Nov 19, 2002 08:32pm | #7

        I used Icynene and love it, but one note of caution:

        check with your local inspector that they will allow a "non-vented roof structure" when you are done!

        I had a close call on that with my place. I think that if it had really come down to it I could have negotiated and explained but was lucky and able to skirt the issue (built a 'second skin' cold roof for other reasons). The inspector definitely made me feel like I would have been in for quite a lot of hassle...

        What I wanted to ask him (but wisely kept my mouth shut, as he was signing off my approval) was what in the heck does an SIP structure do to meet his code requirement for 'mandatory roof venting' ?

        Of course, if you are retrofitting an existing house, and do not need a permit/inspection then don't worry about this nonsense. My warning applies mainly to new construction, and I think if prepared for can be dealt with during the design inspection (show the inspector the engineered design with a non-vented roof (Icynene, SIP) etc, etc).

        Now, let's see if this thread takes off on another venting vs. non-venting rant!

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Designer Kitchen Cabinets on a Budget

This Danish manufacturer has found a way to bring modern, architect-designed cabinetry to the masses.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • Cordless Drywall Cut-Out Saw
  • Podcast 461: Adding a Screened Porch, Insulating a Raised Addition, and Preventing Termites in Exterior Foam
  • Decompartmentalizing a 1940s San Francisco Home
  • Upgrade Your Window Air Conditioner

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Justin Fink Deck Building Course announcement
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Sign Up See all newsletters

BOOKS, DVDs, & MERCH

Shop the Store
  • Code Check Building 4th Edition
    Buy Now
  • Tool Guide 2022
    Buy Now
  • 2021 Fine Homebuilding Archive
    Buy Now
  • Outdoor Projects
    Buy Now
  • Shop the Store

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 307 - June 2022
    • How to Raise a Post-Frame Home
    • Trimming Deck Stairs
    • Evolving an Energy-Efficient Envelope
  • Issue 306 - April/May 2022
    • Framing Stairs to an Out-of-Level Landing
    • Building a Zero-Energy Home for Less
    • Good-Looking and Long-Lasting Traditional Gutters
  • Issue 305 - Feb/March 2022
    • The Steady Surge in Residential Solar
    • The Fine Homebuilding Interview: William B. Rose
    • How Good Is Your Air Barrier?
  • Issue 304 - Dec 2021/Jan 2022
    • Why You Need Blower-Door Testing
    • Passive-House Standards for Everyone
    • Window Replacement With a Side of Rot Repair
  • Issue 303 - November 2021
    • Compact Cordless Miter Saws
    • Maximize Space with Thoughtful Built-Ins
    • 10 Essentials for Quality Trim Carpentry

Fine Homebuilding

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Sign Up
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences

Taunton Network

  • Green Building Advisor
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Fine Gardening
  • Threads
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Copyright
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2022 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Shop the Store

  • Books
  • DVDs
  • Taunton Workshops

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Sign Up See all newsletters

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to set_percent%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in