I am currently finishing the basement that has been insulated with the vapor barrier for the last decade. I thought I would replace a twisted stud when I noticed that the insulation against the outside wall was soaked. It had a strong moldy smell as well. I removed the insulation and the stud in that bay and everything dried and seems fine. The insulation with the vapor barrier is standard practice and code in these parts. Does anyone have a solution for this problem? I am concerned that if I drywall over this, the insulation will never dry and only breed mold. I could use Styrofoam, but this would take an eternity to cut into all of the stud bays and then seal with either foam or tape (I’ve already used this combination for the rim joist). Spray foam would be the best, but unaffordable. Would Roxul insulation perform better in these situations, or should I just remove the vapor barrier?
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Greetings Kidd,
As a first time poster Welcome to Breaktime.
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again which will increase it's viewing.
Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
do you say that to everyone new? have it saved on your clipboard? LOL
yep, just doing a part to help keep the show running :o)
Thanks
Was there no builders felt/construction paper between the batt insulation and the concrete?
Buiding felt was installed only on the lower half of the concrete. There is some house wrap on the upper portion but it does not overlap the to the buiding felt. The wrap goes from the inside of the concrete around the rim joist to the the inside of the upper walls then a vapor barrier continues. The code in these parts is a continuous vapor barrier from basement floor to upstairs, so I guess they thought using the wrap around the rim joist would qualify for that. I idea is that you live in a plastic bag, no vapor in or out. It just doesn't work with basements.
You need to get rid of both though i'm assuming your gonna trash the soaked fiberglas. Vapor barriers are a real no no in a basememt like that. You can see why, they work, just backwards.
When I do basements I go with rigid ins. before we frame. it sounds like you're working with existing frame though.
It will never be easier or cheaper to do it right than now with the drywall down.
Only problem is the entire basement has carpeting, so by tearing down the walls and re-framing them you need to remove the carpet as well since the walls will sit in further. Also the bottom plate is hilti'd to the floor, so removing it is a joy.
Ive never really known those hilti type fasteners to hold that well. Usually they shatter the concrete and come up relatively easy.
As far as the carpet goes just cut it back.
Does your client want the job done right or done cheap?
PS. Thekidd, it's always good to fill out your profile info. Click on your name on a post and go from there.
Have fun
Edited 12/8/2007 12:15 am ET by andyfew322
Last weekend in this old house they were studding walls in the basement against block.
The put visqueen against the block then fiberglass insulation in the stud cavities then visqueen on the outside of the studs. Maybe you could go the thier signt to see if there are any comments on the method they used.
http://www.superwoodworks.com
Sit in your easy chair, get a couple of cold beers, and print this out and read it:
http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-103-understanding-basements/?topic=/systemsapproach/buildingenclosure/foundationassembly/main_topic
You will learn all you need to know about basements and insulation and vapor barriers/retarders.
Billy
Thanks. Did that. That would work great if nothing had been done, and there is more room in the budget. I just wish local codes reflected that, now it costs a whole lot more, especially when it is unexpected.
I'm not qualified in any way to answer your question. Consider my posts to be of entertainment value only. ;-)
Put foam board on the outside of the studs, and drywall over that. Use long screws, glue, whatever. Release your electrical boxes from the studs and set them in holes cut in the board. You can foam them in place with canned polyurethane foam so they stay put.
Add jamb extensions for your windows. Glue all your trim to the drywall, or use really long nails.
Anyways - if there's a flaw in my scheme, I'm looking forward to finding out. :-) I come here to learn, not to educate.
Edited 12/9/2007 9:52 pm ET by Biff_Loman