Good morning. I’ve been reading the forums here for a couple of weeks and really enjoy it. I recently got a handyman liscense, insurance, WC and am about to move to operating my business full time. I’m 30 and have been working in various construction trades since I was 15, and recently I have become enthralled with anything and everything relating to home improvements and construction. Everyday I realize I don’t know as much as I thought I knew, so basically I admit to knowing nothing.
Anyhow, a year ago I bought and moved into a major fixer upper. I will never do that again (move into a construction zone, that is). Having no place to put your stuff and having your only sink propped on cinder blocks for months is insane. I have renewed, replaced, or added nearly everything. New electric, new plumbing, new roof, new porch, new remodeled kitchen and bathrooms, I could go on but this is not the place. Finally my question: What are some good options for insulating my floors? I’m in central Florida and the house was built in 1942, above ground and about a three foot crawl space. The sub floor is 1×6 boards, the finish flooring is 3/4 inch oak, and the bathrooms and kitchen are tiled. My first instict is to use encapsulated fiberglass with the most affordable/practical r-value between the floor joists. Any tips?
While I’m here, I have also replaced or sistered a total of 15 floor joist. In the process, one of the joist has actually raised a portion of the hallway floor adjacent to the bathroom. It’s almost 1/2” off level in the highest spot. The bathroom joists had some serious rot (the joist beneath the old toilet location had crumbled away about 3 feet in each direction) so I suspect there was some settling of the subfloor above this joist. I also realize the sizing of today’s lumber is a little different than it was in ’42. If anyone would share thier wisdom on the best way to remedy this situation, I’d be very obliged. Thanks for listening!
Jason
(EDIT) Note- this house is nothing more than an investment. I got one heck of a deal on it, and it’s already worth twice what I paid. I guess I should ask- is it even worth insulating the floor if I am planing to sell soon?
Edited 3/9/2005 12:58 pm ET by bbqjason
Edited 3/9/2005 12:59 pm ET by bbqjason
Replies
Fixer uppers are a sickness. Seek help now, before others become infected.
FG batt insulation is probably fine for your location. Get the size that matches your joists. Encapsulated is a lot more fun to handle in a crawl space. Pay attention to the manufacturer's instructions as to which side goes toward the living space. In a humid climate maybe that's different... someone from Fla can clarify perhaps?
Joists should be flush on the top, regardless of the bottoms. Did one of your new ones get too high or it is one of the existing?
Read the Business folder everyday for info on going into business. Get yourself a seatbelt, helmet, goggles, fire-retardant suit, etc.
thanks for the help, davidmeiland. The hump in the hallway appeared after putting in the new joists, so it was caused by the new joists. I removed the subfloor in the bathroom, but not the adjacent hallway, before putting in the new joists. The new joists span from the sill to the concrete supports (girder?) at the house's center. I had to bevel opposite corners of each joist, put them in place, then flip them up and bang them into their final place with a hammer. Some went in easier than others. I checked the joists for level on the open bathroom floor and was OK, but I didn't have the luxury to do so in the hallway (I may have raised the hallway immediately upon installation, but didn't consider to check it). I suspect the hump resulted from one of the joists that was difficult to bang in.
Now I want to get rid of the hump, but I don't want to remove the joist as it was also nailed and screwed to whatever remained of the existing joist. Is it possible to cut a horizontal section out of this "problem joist" easily? I want to allow the floor to drop to level, but I figure using a circular saw will do nothing but bind on me if I try to cut out a cerf's width at a time until it's level. Anybody?
Don't use a circular saw. That sounds like an accident waiting to happen... You might try using a saw-Zall with a 12" blade. You can usually bend it enough to get the right angle on the joist. If that doesn't work, use the same saw with a steel blade and cut between the old and new joist and put in a joist that isn't bowed.
Did you say you had a 3/4" floor over a 1X6 sub floor? You could cut out the subfloor on either side of the joist and shim up to the 3/4" finished floor. Block off the subfloor to either side of the joist though.
I'm not sure, but my second suggestion will probably draw some fire.
" What are some good options for insulating my floors?"
Don't is probably your best option.
Instead go for a sealed or conditioned crawlspace and insulate the walls.
"Instead go for a sealed or conditioned crawlspace and insulate the walls."
Interesting. How would I go about doing what you have said here? Do you mean insulate all exterior walls of the living space?
Note- this house is nothing more than an investment. I got one heck of a deal on it, and it's already worth twice what I paid. I guess I should ask- is it even worth doing this if I plan to sell?
I will let you decide what the cost are.But what I am talking about is covering the ground with a vapor barrier and insulating the crawlspace foundation walls. And sealing off any enterior vents.Here is an example for new construction.http://www.buildingscience.com/housesthatwork/mixedhumid/charlotte.htmSearching the resources will might have something on retro fitting.FHB and JLC have had a couple of articles in the last 2-3 years.One of the problems in your area is that AC is used a lot. You will get outside moist air into the crawlspace and moisture from the ground and it will condense on the bottom of the floor.