insulation around repacement windows
I am replacing old double hung windows with vinyl. Is it cost effective to remove the window weights and insulate the cavity? If so, what is the most effective insulation?
I am replacing old double hung windows with vinyl. Is it cost effective to remove the window weights and insulate the cavity? If so, what is the most effective insulation?
There's a constant source of clean water for you to use, and all you have to do is collect it.
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Replies
I like to use fiberglass.
I cut the batt to the size of the weight pocket, and use a stick to maneuver it into place. It may take a bit, and its not probably not going to be a perfect insulating job.
Absolutely- I remove the weight pocket door, sometimes you have to complete the cut at it's corners, pull out the weights and fill with fiberglass batt pieces. I also use a thin push stick or dowel. I think filling the weight pocket will save at least as much as the window, probably more. You'll also notice after you do it, trim paint will now stay on because your not getting condensation behind the paint anymore.
Yeah, stuff it tight with fiberglass.
Cost effective? Who knows? It's not a fun job, and I doubt you could calculate how much energy/money that little bit of insulation would save, but some things we just do because it seems right. I wonder in the NuPro guys bother doing this?
Like the others, I use a stick to stuff fiberglass up and down in the weight pocket. I find small pieces are easier than big ones.
Has anyone tried expanding foam?
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA.
There's some chance of blowing out the pocket if you use expanding foam.
I cut the cords drill some holes and shoot the foam in the pocket. I try to get three or four windows ahead to give it a chance to set up. No problems so far.
Additonally I've foamed around vynil windows, directly. They make a low expanding foam for this purpose.
Edited 1/22/2005 7:24 pm ET by TMO
Dan,
With the expanding foam, I've had reaaly good results using low expansion foam, especially the water soluble stuff (Dap?) for clean-up.Jeremy
Yeah, I like the Dap low expansion stuff. Not nearly as messy (won't damage woodwork) and no worry about blowing something out. But it gets pretty expensive since you need to use about 4 times as many cans.
I don't like that Dap water soluble stuff.Even when fully cured, all you have to do is look at it and think about poking it with a finger, and it collapses.
The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow
Well, you don't leave it exposed. (Or at least I don't.)
Do you also put up little do not disturb signs so the meeses won't run around in it, and ruin it's insulation value ??;)Once one mouse runs through it like it wasn't there, it will collapse on itself. Turns pretty much to dust.
The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow
The stuff's expensive enough that I don't feed it to the mice. Just use it for around window openings, etc (and stuff the wider cracks of those with FG first).For mouse-proofing you should use some steel wool (SS if exposed to the weather) and foam that in place with cheap urethane.
Try cotton insulation, denim scraps with flame retardant chemicals. More pleasant to work with and probably more effective than FG. http://www.bondedlogic.com.