Mike,
I have read many threads regarding insulation. I have attempted to absorb all of this knowledge in order to make an informed decision. I have several quotes for fiberglass batts, but do not want to use it. I have one quote for icynene and just about fell over when I saw the $20,000+ price tag. I had expected a higher price, but not that high.
I also had the pleasure of seeing the photographs that you posted from a small cape that you did in RI. I saw all of the work that you put into making the cellulose dams, the loose cellulose in the attic and the dense pack in the walls.
My questions are:
Instead of all that loose fill in the attic, could I have the underside of the roof sprayed with icynene and dense pack the walls with cellulose to create an effective insulation envelope?
My reasoning for this plan was to avoid the loose fill on the attic floor. This leads to my second question, will I still need to have insulation in the ceiling between the second floor and the attic if the underside of the roof is sprayed with icynene?
I have enjoyed reading your thoughts on this matter and know that you are pro-cellulose. You’ve turned me pro cellulose but those dams around the vents and what do you do with recessed lighting? My final question is this, Can I tackle a 3200 square foot home with rental equip? I don’t think I would get a return on buying a used machine for a onetime use. Thanks and I look forward to hearing from you. Thanks, kennyg
Replies
wow... kennyg..
hey, man.. can i have your autograph ?
in no particular order.. and i hope someone else jumps in , too..
can lights... use the IC rated ones.. no problem
attics with loose fill.. depends on what you want ot use the attic for.. if you want light storage up there .. we build a raised floor in the storage area...
say you have 2x8 attic floor joists .. adn you build a cross floor with 2x8 @ 24" oc with a 1/2" ply floor ... now you have 16" of cellulose under the floor.. and at the edges you can have more.. just build some damns
our attic is like that..
what do you do.. are you in the trades ?
where do you live... you could buy a used machine.. or buy a new one and sell it when you're done.. or you can go to your cellulose supplier.. find out where the insulation contractors buy their cellulose..
get a referral from the distributor.. you'd be surprised how inexpensive they will blow cells for.. and if you find someone who talks "dens-pak".. they can do it all for you
or ... do it yourself...
sounds like a big house...
you can insulate the underside of the roof like you described, but it will increase the volume of your conditioned space.. is that something you really want to do ?
Mike,
I get that autograph thing all of the time.... just a nick name that stuck.
I appreciate the information, but I think I am going to have the electrician swap out the cans on the second floor. I have not checked them but I hope they are the IC kind.
The suggestion for the storage is good and I think I am going to use it.
I am not going the route of buying the machine and hassling to get rid of it after I am done. I finally found a referred insulation guy who would return my phone calls. He gave me different quotes based upon just fiberglass, a mostly cellulose w/some fiberglass option and then all cellulose. I went with all cellulose hoping to recoupe the extra initial cost within a couple of years.
I don't know if you have heard of this study, but this contractor kept referring to a study that shows how fiberglass reduces its rfactor by half in 32 degree weather and almost 100 percent reduction at zero degrees. I don't know if this was part of a sales pitch or if it really exists.
The insulation guy I am going to contract with stuffs the ridge?(where ceiling joists and roof rafters meet) with fiberglass. The problem I see is if the fiberglass falls out, but are there other problems? If I have time, I am going to use the Styrofoam like you did in some of the pictures I saw.
I live in Ct and am not currently in the biz, but after retirement I am looking to get into some aspect of building.
I really appreciate the time you took to answer my questions and concerns,
kennyg
kenny..
<<<<The insulation guy I am going to contract with stuffs the ridge?(where ceiling joists and roof rafters meet) with fiberglass. The problem I see is if the fiberglass falls out, but are there other problems? If I have time, I am going to use the Styrofoam like you did in some of the pictures I saw.>>>
he's going to stuff the "plate" area.. where the rafter/wall/ceiling joist meet
he's using the fiberglass as "blocking" to keep your soffits from filling with cellulose
some of the weatherization guys do the same but they put the fiberglass "blocking" in plastic garbage bags to prevent air movement thru the blocking
you can check your light cans yourself... open one up take the bulb out.. there will be a UL label.. it will either say "IC" rated or notMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Just to add something to the IC cans. If its possible, use the air seal IC recessed lights. The brand everyone around here uses are lightolier, I imagine its the same for Mike in RI and you in CT. Lightolier is out of New Bedford or Fall River Ma. The regular IC cans and non IC cans have quite a few small holes and gaps where the wires go into the bulb area, etc. They make an air seal version that is completely sealed so the house air cannot go into the attic space and vice versa. They are only $4 or $5 more than the regular IC's, use those on the first floor.