This may seem like a silly question:
Been doing carpentry for many years but am considering using steel studs for the first time. I’m looking at a basement remodel and might use steel studs to frame around the perimeter. How does one use batt insulation if the studs are hollow? Seems like the batts wouldn’t be wide enough to fill the cavity.
BTW, anyone see the brief article in Builder citing research by CARB on the most moisture-breathable insulating system for basements? That research showed that fg batts trap the least amount of moisture.
THanks for the help.
Replies
A drywall/steel stud supplier should have unfaced batts that are sized a full 16 / 24" so they friction fit in between the steel. Run the studs in the same direction ( [ [ [ ) and cut the insulation to width firm when you have to. On tall runs, you may have to come up with a temp approach to hold the batts in until you drywall. As to insulation against a foundation wall............................so many answers, I assume some are probably more right than others. Best of luck.
Also, take a look at slip track and cold rolled reinforcing steel while you study up on steel studs work. Also, plastic grommets for running romex through the knockouts which you lined up perfectly, cutting only the same end of the stud.
I use steel studs alot, a throw back from commercial work. Done right, it's easier than wood in the close and goofy confines of a basement. Perfect to go around and about all the ductwork/plumbing etc.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Edited 2/7/2004 12:19:11 PM ET by calvin
Thanks Calvin.
I've seen enough of steel stud work to know what you're talking about. The slip track allows for relative movement between top and bottom track, right? Shouldn't be a concern here.
Thanks for your info.
Cal, What's a good source for lernin' up on steel stud construction?
I just hired on with a company that does build out / construction in a defense contractor facility and have only touched wood once in the last 2 weeks. I told the super I had only worked residential with no steel experience, he said no problem, a couple of the other guys (plumber, electrician) could give me pointers. Well, their pointers don't seem to be the right way to do some things, and as the only carp on the job, I want to get up to speed!
Whatever help, sites, etc. would be appreciated. (I don't even know who mfrs steel studs)
Thanks, DocA shortcut is the longest distance between two points.
Doc, I'm sorry to have to suggest this, but do a search here and since it's sunday, say a prayer that it works. Several people here have listed sources both in print and on the web detailing steel stud work. I learned mine on the job, looking at miles of install around me. The tricks you pick up, time consuming but priceless. Here's the results of a net search, just looking at the headings tells me you'll find something in here of use. Otherwise, I'm sure a couple of regulars will come by with some more specific suggestions. Any questions, don't hesitate to ask, we try to help here. Best of luck. Screw gun and what we call bad-azz clamps (small vice grip "c" clamps), and a magnetic level and you'll look the part.
Wall Products - Potter Interior Systems Limited View Image - ... Potter Interior Systems Ltd carry the full range of tools and accessories for the installation of steel stud and track in Auckland Wellington and Christchurch ... http://www.potters.co.nz/wall-steelstud.php
View products at a glance for this category View Image - ... knockouts, unique clip-on tab on adjustable mounting strap for steel stud support foot adjustable for 3” and 4” stud, set for 1/2” drywall installation. ... http://www.hubbell-canada.com/wiring/temco_srch/boxes.asp?catID=8
Insulation: CertainTeed: Tech Corner : Professional View Image - ... 13 and R-15 batts are recommended with 4" steel studs. Any friction installation also requires that board be directly fastened to both sides of the stud framing ... http://www.certainteed.com/pro/insulation/techcorn/techb61.html
Leveling an Old Ceiling View Image - ... These strings guide the steel-stud installation. Steel is lighter and straighter than wood For ceilings less than 1-1/2 in. out of level, 4-in. ... http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00121.asp
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
edit: All the search links didn't appear above. I googled using Steel Stud Installation, and a whole lotta things came up. Try it.
Quittin' Time
Edited 2/8/2004 7:54:11 AM ET by calvin
Have you ever used punch crimpers for light gauge steel studs?
I bought a pair several years ago. They reduce the number of times I need to clamp things by about 50%. They are also great for those spots that you find you can't get the screw gun too. Now if I can just remember to take them with me the first day....
Dave
Yes, have used crimpers and they do make quick work of it. We found that many times we were safer screwing when we knew inexperienced trades would follow us. I'm sure you've seen what a bogus electrical contractor could do to layout if only crimped. We had a wall once with a couple studs pulled back and taped so you could easily walk through the wall. You got it, the electrode mounted his box to the pulled over stud and as was their case, run the wire in rigid. All we could do was leave and add to close up that wall. So many comical things building new malls..............Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
About the only place I crimp is where I can't get my screw gun to one side.
I know what you mean about other trades. These days everyone has a cordless drill, and are not bashfull about taking apart a wall for whatever reason.
Dave
What about sheet foam?
I think that it has a lot of advantages. For one you don't have to worry about moist air condensening on the concrete.
I am starting on a project like that now. Because of a bow in the foundation and stablaizing I-beams I am goin got make a foam wall and then build a steel stub wall in front of that use 1 5/8 stud.
I have never used the steel studs, but a friend of mine does comercial finish work and is going to get me started.
blow in wall cavities with cellulose, tighter job with more R per inch then Fiberglass.
I like the sheet foam (2" extruded polystyrene) against the concrete, then the steel stud wall.
How to blow in cellulose in this application? Sheetrock must go on first. Drill holes in the sr? Frame the studwalls snug against the foam?
I work for a contractor that does both commercial and residential work. Most of the commercial work involves steel studs. I am getting close to the point that I prefer steel over wood, but I'm not there yet.
The Journal of Light Construction has several articles available that can give you some of the basic details for putting together walls. You can get their CD or purchase individual articles. If you are interested in some of the articles, send me an email. Although I haven't had a chance to check out the books, the Steel Framing Alliance has quite a few resources available.
To get insulation to stay in place we use 3M 77 adhesive and give each side of the stud bay a shot before the insulation goes in. It seems to work pretty well.
I don't like to crimp studs because it always seems like something changes.
We don't do much drywall, but when we do we have trouble attaching it to light gauge studs. The stud wants to roll when the screw hits it. Maybe someone has an idea.
Mark
Yes, I am serious. And don't call me Shirley.
Thanks Mark.
I do have the JLCD-Rom and the Best of FHB. Also have in front of me the latest in JLC (11/03). I think I've got a handle on the basics.
If I don't use the adhesive on the insulation, will it eventually slide down?
I can see how the studs would roll. I'll just have to conquer that when the time comes. It's done all the time -- I'll figure it out.
Rolling studs are conquered by the direction you hang the board. If You hang left to right, the open side of the stud should face the right [------ [ ------ [. This way the board lands on the closed side of the stud and stiffens the open side for the next board. From metal studs 101.
Dave
Thanks, prof. I'll take the final after I wind up this job.
I always thought that it was best to land the drywall on the open (soft) side of the stud first.
If you land on the hard side, and push the flange slightly inward as you screw in the drywall, that can create a misalignment when the next sheet lands on the soft side.
Eric
Light gauge studs will roll away from the screw if you land on the open side first. Heavier gauges you can hit either side ok. With light ga. you can hold the open side with your hand until you get 4 or 5 screws in.
I am right handed, so I hang right to left. Open side is to my left and as the board edge lands on the closed side, my left hand is naturally holding the board and the open side of the stud in a clamping action. Screw gun is loaded in my right hand and pops in the first screw on the left edge of the board. Panel alignment follows with nohidden soft edges.
Dave