Replies

1. 
   luvmuskoka | Sep 12, 2002 01:54pm | #1

   As is obvious, someone removed the hardwood in the hallway, replaced it with plywood and carpeted over everything.

   The field in picture #3 shows the original Heart Pine floor (from around 1900), which at some point was surrounded with 2-1/4" oak. The installers built nice herringbone details into the rooms.

   Ditch

   
   

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   Edited 9/12/2002 6:58:42 AM ET by luvditchburns

   
1. 
   luvmuskoka | Sep 12, 2002 02:03pm | #2

   Inspection from the basement revealed 2X4 scabs attached to the joists in the hallway and held up above the original joists about 3/4". I assumed at the time that they held the scabs up 3/4" to save a sheet of plywood......wrong.

   Ditch

1. 
   luvmuskoka | Sep 12, 2002 02:27pm | #3

   After removing the plywood I discovered some serious settleing. There is a wall directly under the center of the hallway with a beam which supports the joists. The walls on either side of the hallway were however not supported, and subsequently settled. Mono posts had been installed, by whoever did the repair, under each wall to stop the settlement.

   This picture reveals the extent of the settleing. I have installed 2X8 sisters which rest on the original beam. The sisters were pony nailed with 6" pole barn spikes to tie the joist splices together over the beam and give me a guide for lopping the buckle off the top of the original joists.

1. 
   luvmuskoka | Sep 13, 2002 04:38am | #4

   With the pine field taken out I installed oak 2-1/4 and added herringbone corners to match the other side of the room:

   Ditch

1. 
   luvmuskoka | Sep 13, 2002 04:44am | #6

   The floor is now being cleaned up for a new finish.

   Ditch

2. 
   calvin | Sep 13, 2002 01:28pm | #7

   What's that blade called on the multi-tool?  And what did you use it for?  I'm always hoping to find another thing that fein can do.  Thanks.__________________________________________

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

3. 
   luvmuskoka | Sep 13, 2002 02:17pm | #8

   Calvin,

   It's called an "E" type blade 2-1/4". $44.00. For fine precision cutting. They also sell a number of other blades one of which will under cut door jambs, although I still prefer my heavy jamb saw.

   Ditch

4. 
   andybuildz | Sep 13, 2002 02:25pm | #9

   Ditch

           Real nice job dude! Dontcha knees hurt by now?

   Be well

            Namaste

                        AndyIt's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

5. 
   luvmuskoka | Sep 13, 2002 02:45pm | #10

   Andy,

   Thanks. Been doin' this since I was 12. Just turned 41. My knees hurt all the time. Discovered gel pads recently which actually stay put for more than 5 minutes. DW/BOSS used to sew pockets in the knees of my pants and I'd stuff them with carpet pad.

   Ditch

6. 
   luvmuskoka | Sep 13, 2002 10:56pm | #13

   Pay Day:

   Ditch

   
7. 
   calvin | Sep 13, 2002 11:44pm | #14

   Thanks for the reply, nice job, you had alot to work with (on).  Have a good weekend.__________________________________________

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

8. 
   JeffBuck | Sep 14, 2002 06:33am | #15

   Wow!

   Looks like tons of repairs...and not the run of the mill stuff.

   Customers gotta be happy. Very nice...now take a day off!

   Jeff.......Sometimes on the toll road of life.....a handful of change is good.......

9. 
   luvmuskoka | Sep 14, 2002 03:22pm | #16

   Jeff,

   Thanks for the nice comment. This was one of those jobs that you kind of dread on the morning drive in. I used over 50  recip. blades to cut the top of the old yellow pine joists off, they were the hardest material I've ever seen.

   P.S. Check your snail mail today or monday.

   Ditch

10. 
    Sawhorse5 | Sep 14, 2002 04:59pm | #17

    Great job.  What stapler did you use to attach the flooring?

11. 
    luvmuskoka | Sep 15, 2002 03:12am | #18

    Judge,

    Thanks. Bostich, with  coated staples.

    Ditch

12. 
    luvmuskoka | Sep 21, 2002 01:33pm | #21

    Calvin,

    Just got a message from the Fein people, they are headquartered in Pgh., not far from me. They are in the process of developing a series of profile pads for sanding complex shapes like flutes and "V" grooves. The "V" groove tool would be invaluable for sanding "V" groove flooring. I also purchased replacement hook and loop pads so that I can cut triangles from used sand paper and eliminate buying expensive packs of their paper. They are also going to intruduce a series of cutting blades for installing sheet goods.Ditch

13. 
    calvin | Sep 21, 2002 01:39pm | #22

    Good morning and thanks for the information.  Keep me informed.__________________________________________

    Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    http://www.quittintime.com/

     

14. 
    larryealy | Sep 17, 2002 03:52am | #19

    Beautiful job! Larry & Joy

15. 
    luvmuskoka | Sep 17, 2002 04:07am | #20

    Larry,

    Welcome!! You found it I see.

    Gotta get together for a ride.

    DitchDitch

16. 
    calvin | Sep 13, 2002 02:52pm | #11

    Thanks.  I'll look for it.  I have used the half moon blade that came with the tool for cutting out base, crown etc when needing a clean cut.  What uses have you found for the E blade?  Do you use it to make the cut when you tooth in the repairs?  Thanks again.__________________________________________

    Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    http://www.quittintime.com/

     

17. 
    luvmuskoka | Sep 13, 2002 10:47pm | #12

    Calvin,

    Yes I use it to tooth in repairs almost every week. I also use it to sand my corners and any other tight areas after hand scraping with a Sandvik. I have used the power scraper blade to get behind registers and around the legs of radiators where my extendo-edger won't reach. They also make a carbide demo blade which might be the right tool when an areas too tight for a recip. saw.

    Ditch

2. 
   luvmuskoka | Sep 13, 2002 04:42am | #5

   The flooring boards under the hall walls were trapped and couldn't be removed. I started on each side of the hall and worked toward the center. The fill came out to 5-1/8". I often sneak an oversize piece of flooring in to keep from having to rip a small amout off of a number of boards.

   By the way, the 3" board came from a bundle that was in my shop for a few years so it looks much darker but will come clean when sanded and be virtually invisible.

   Ditch

   Edited 9/13/2002 7:24:49 AM ET by luvditchburns