Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Nov 07, 2004 03:31am | #1

   What thickness can you go to?

   If you plaster directly to the block surface, there is no dust involved.

    

    

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2. 
   WayneL5 | Nov 07, 2004 05:03am | #2

   Fabric covered Homasote panels are an option.  They are not normally painted, but can be.

   They can be installed in a frame and panel design, with matching mahogany frames covering the joints and a mahogany wainscot.

   http://www.homasote.com/burlap.html

1. 
   E_Martine | Nov 21, 2004 04:48am | #4

   Thanks, this is the most useful reply I have had. I'm in the demolition phase and will be insulating this weekend. I will try the panels with trim matching the original mahogany.

1. 
   MojoMan | Nov 21, 2004 06:02am | #5

   How about MDO? It's very smooth, but you still have to deal with the joints.

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

2. 
   gdavis62 | Nov 21, 2004 05:57pm | #8

   The homasote panels with burlap surface are extremely expensive.  Maybe over $100 for each 4 x 8 sheet.  Be prepared for this, and the special-order lead time.

   Also bear in mind that the homasote product is one made from recycled paper, and is porous.  If your substrate CMU walls can be emitting moisture or even leaking, you will want to get everything sealed up before covering.

   That said, however, homasote burlap used on walls can create a fabulous effect, especially with the mahogany trim scheme you will do.

   Check it out at Homasote's web site.

3. 
   jjwalters | Nov 08, 2004 12:19pm | #3

   Personally I wouldn't consider masonite for anything.

   In my place I'm doing the cathederal ceilings in t&g pine, but the walls will be drywall as I found no other product as cheap and more open to customization.

    I am going to apply a skip trowel affect to the stuff and plan on no sanding(or very little) as the seams will be hidden by the mud skipping.
4. 
   Clay | Nov 21, 2004 07:03am | #6

   Really plaster, stucco, EIFS coating, or something similar would be a much better idea than masonite, MDF, or something similar.  There is always the potential for moisture coming through the block wall and the fiberboard products have an extremely low tolerance for moisture.  Plaster or stucco type coatings can take quite a bit of moisture without problems and the EIFS is pretty impervious.  A lot of craftsmen like to use Gypsolite or Structolite (pre-mixed pearlited plasters) for this type finish and it does work well.  I like to roll on a rewettable masonry glue before plastering or stuccoing such surfaces ... you can often get by without it, but it is cheap insurance. 

   If you used the EIFS you could insulate with foam, then apply the EIFS coating, paint, and be done.  You'd have a pretty slim insulation job and the whole works would be reasonably moisture resistant.

   
   

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   Edited 11/20/2004 11:07 pm ET by Clay

1. 
   E_Martine | Nov 21, 2004 05:40pm | #7

   OK, what is EIFS?

2. 
   E_Martine | Nov 21, 2004 06:48pm | #9

   I checked into EIFS, and it is for exterior (E) application, althought the idea is right for the situation. I cannot attach to the exterior because of some glass window walls that abutt at a right angle outside this room, leaving no clearance for an outside layer.
   That is why I have to insulate the interior.
   I have already added a new built up joist system to the roof to add insulation, due to the cathedral ceilings inside leaving no room to add insulation. Wright and his followers should never have built like this in a cold climate!

1. 
   timkline | Nov 21, 2004 09:29pm | #10

   EIFS is for anywhere and would be perfect for this. You need a plaster base coat to smooth out the concrete block wall surface.

   EIFS finish is used over the plaster base. It will have a light sand finish. You won't even need to paint it.

   This process is not really a do-it-myself kind of thing.

    carpenter in transition