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I was going to suggest blocking, too, as Calvin did, but I would also suggest considering countersunk, square-drive trim-head screws, followed by putty. But that might be my tendency to overbuild when there’s any question of materials staying put, together with my talent for finding the slowest way to do anything.
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"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
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MDM: FHB#32 (going way back to '86) has an article on steel framing that addresses trim; and Tom O'Brien's more recent article (#97, 1995, pages 73-4) says to use finish screws and, usually, to predrill the molding. That method also requires putty over the countersunk screws. Good luck.
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MDM,
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© 1999-2000
"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it."
Aristotle
*Thanks Joe, I went to the job today to give it a final look over and sure enough, it's just as you described, heavy gauge on the exterior walls and light gauge on the partition walls. When I bid the job, I figured my time installing with screws, but had heard talk of shooting with a trim nailer and thought it may save time. As it turns out the customer would prefer to have it all installed with screws and const adhesive, so thats now the plan of attack.
*MDM,
View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle
*You got it! I'll be on the job first thing Monday morning with camera in hand and ready to get after it.This place is kind of unique as it is a hunting lodge that is located in the Texas hills on a large ranch. The building will be about 1100 sq ft.I've done work for this customer before in building a set of cabinets for another all metal building on the ranch known as the cookhouse.There is also a all metal resident house that's about 2800 sq' and will be the last one to get finished.The owner did all of the building himself with the help of a relative and a ranch hand. The buildings all set about 3 miles off the main road. If you get a chance, check out his web page [email protected]
*Sorry, The web address is http://www.knausranch.com
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I'm trimming out a house that was built with all metal const, and was at the local lumberyard picking up self tapping trim head screws to attach the trim, when this one fellow at the counter said instead of using screws, he just shoots 16ga finish nails through the trim right into the steel studs and claims that they pierce the metal and hold as good as in wood studs.
Has anyone tried this technique; and if so, how well does it work? It would sure save some time, not to mention leaving a smaller fastener hole to fill. But the whole thing I can't see is that once the nail would pierce the metal, how's it gonna hold? Opinions?
*Did it on a project about a year ago (commercial/heavy use type building) and they were still on the wall when I came back to see someone a year or so later!? Shoot 'em about every foot or so and reverse the angle every other shot /// .
*Hey thanks Chris R!
*Mad Dog, If you have concerns about your trim staying put, a little bead construction adhesive or latex caulk helps. The nails hold it in place until the glue dries.
*MD..yes finish nails will hold..charge 'em extra for using metal stud in the first place though.YUK YUK YUK!!
*MD,The lighter gauge studs will take the nail. It almost welds to the metal. Const. adhes for a little security. Pulling it in is a little more difficult. If you have the heavy (load bearing framing) steel studs, you might have to use the tappers.If you angle into the drywall ok. Angle into the metal, and methinks she ricochet maybe. Best of luck
*Mad dog, I too have found that the gun nails nold fine, but like the advantages of glue. I switched top urethane adhesive about four years ago and like it better than construction adhesive. First it allows a tighter fit since the urethane compresses more readily and more evenly. Second the set up time for good adhesion is much less than CA. Third point for indoor areas for me at any rate, I can tolerate the fumes from urethane better than most CA. I use ENERBOND SF foam adhesive, Flexible Products Company of Canada. I have a couple of guns that fit the pressurised cans and like the added feature of control. A good product. Works well on floors were a little dab will doya. Walk good david
*MDM,For crown, I think I would screw blocks up first. Then, shoot to those.
*Hey, thanks for the input everybody, I'm goin for it.
*I was going to suggest blocking, too, as Calvin did, but I would also suggest considering countersunk, square-drive trim-head screws, followed by putty. But that might be my tendency to overbuild when there's any question of materials staying put, together with my talent for finding the slowest way to do anything.
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Joe, and Mad Dog
I had to rework a job that had been "nailed" to steel studs. The trim came away from the wall, most of the 18g nails had just collapsed. My customer would not accept trim screws so I toe nailed and used foam ployurethane adhesive in a pressurized 2lb container (EnerBond tm 1-800-5am-4447)and the "Pageris" applicator. The gluewas the key, no call back 2.5yrs and I continue to do work for him.