Interior wall: Acceptable Practices?
I’m working on remodeling my own bath, and I’m looking to move an interior wall over by 18″. The wall is not load bearing. My question is regarding acceptable building practices.
In a perfect world, I would pull down all of the ceiling drywall, and erect the wall. But my question/idea is: Is it acceptable to install my top plate against the existing drywall, and anchor into trusses/nailing blocks above?
A Little background and info: The home is a 30×50 ranch, with truss roof. The wall will be non-bearing, with no doors/windows. The wall will run paralled to the trusses, but not under one, so I will be adding 2×4’s, 24″oc as anchors for the top plate.
I’m sure this is a novice/newbie question, but construction is not my specialty. Thanks in advance! You all are always full of knowledge and answers!
Replies
I fasten plates thru drywall often. If the wall is parallel to the ceiling joists/trusses, I go up into the attic and fasten 2x blocking between bays where the plate will lie, blocking every 16 - 24" oc. If you're crossing the joists/trusses, then just fastened the plate to the joist/truss.
Sure makes drywalling easier.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
It's done all the time. I'm sure that there are even "pros" who don't bother with the blocking, but it's certainly wise to have it.
Sounds like you've got a "feel" for this.
Why not just remove the 18" of drywall adjacent to the wall, nail wood to wood and hang new drywall from the new wall to the old wall position?
Should get two 8' strips from one sheet if only moving the wall 18".
You don't have to deal with that pesky narrow strip of drywall, one less seam in your ceiling and the hole might provide convenient access during the process.
Just a thought.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Well, you could, in fact, just build the wall, an then stand it up where it needs to go--if the walls the new wall is T-ing into are handy, the new wall is not too long, and so forth.
That gets you out of the issues that might occur with tying into the trusses (some of which discourage the practice). Ok, that's more of a TI "trick," but it can be handy, as you can have the new wall in and sealed up, before you start ripping down gypsum board.
I love the cherry bookcase you articled for FWW. I knew I recognized the name, then saw your website link. Beautiful work on your site.
Dustin
PS sorry for the post hijack
Also-consider a double top or bottom plate for this wall that you apply first. For instance, cut a top plate and then nail it into place. Then build your wall with single bottom and top plates, minus 1-1/2" plus, then install. This will make it easier to install, you won't have to smack it with a sledgehammer and totally marr up the existing drywall.
It's much easier to move the wiring if you cut the drywall.
But that's just me... every hole I open or wall I move has at least one service drop.
Troy Sprout
"A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should also have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government."
-- George Washington
Lay out on the ceiling where the far edge of the new top plate will fall. Carefull cut the ceiling DW on the line. Remove the waste DW.
Strip the DW off and remov the existing wall and deal with any electrical you have.
Walls attached to trusses should use a slip clip because trusses can bow when the weather changes.
What I would do in your situation is frame the new wall so top of the first top plate was flush with the top of the existing ceiling DW, then use a 2x6 for the secont top plate. This gives a 1" nailer for the DW.
Since you (should) be using slip clips, nail the truss to truss blocking 1/4" above the new top plate. The slip clips have a slot on one leg, the slot goes to the T2T block with a nail in the middle of the slot.
If you have to put DW nailing blocks where the old wall was, be sure to nail those blocks flush with the bottom of the trusses. You can probably use a strip of wood laid on top across the joint itself and nail both pieces of DW to it.
After you nail off the ceiling DW where the old wall was, sand a 1" wide strip next to its' edge until you fuzz the joint tape. Wet the joint tape Make it drip. Wait 5 minutes and wet it again. Wait 15 minutes and pull it off. Prepare the area for a butt joint before you put the new ceiling DW in.
SamT