We’ve a lot of flat trim hardwood to run, and the trim scheme will require a few runs that exceed the length of the stock we’re getting. Everything is clearcoated maple or cherry
When doing this before, we’ve selected boards for color and grain that when end-butted, leave a joint that doesn’t jump out at your eyes. We cut at 90 and chamfer a tiny easeover at the butts, to hide any non-flush situation.
What do you do with conditions like this?
Replies
I always use a modifed scarf joint in those situations -- cut the pieces at 45 degrees and overlap them. The thinking is that when they move over time, there will be exposed wood that will show.
If the trim is stained, I also smear some stain on the cut edges before installing.
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"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
if you do a scarf joint cut it so that, if it opens, the gap will be away from the normal viewpoint.
Or biscuit joint the ends together c/w glueAll the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
I always run a scarf joint at 30 degrees glue and brad nail seam, sand flat.
Always nail the long point first to wall and then lap the miter
Harder with prefinished, but match the grain/color so the joint disappears, scarf and glue/nail-sand if necessary/restain/finish. Much easier if not finished.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
This has been hashed out a bit here a few times.
I rarely see nice scarf joint in anything other than old or high end work.
Butts leave a smaller joint visible.
I'd butt with a biscuit in your case.
Eric
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I favor a 15 degree angle with glue. I find that a 45 leaves too much surface area to mate up easily.
15 degrees here, much easier than 45.Lee