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I’d like to put in one of those undermounted soap dispensers. I was going to use the hole in the faucet deck where the sprayer comes out (never use it anyhow). However, that’s about a 1/2″ hole, and the support base of the dispenser is about 3/4″. So, I’m wondering, is it possible to drill out another hole in the deck of the sink (two-bowl, stainless) or am I just asking for trouble. There isn’t enough room under the sink to be able to drill a hole in the counter-top off to the side of the sink. TIA.
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Martagon,
Check out that hole in the sink again. Unless you got a real off the wall, made in some back woods, tenth world country, stainless sink then a soap dispenser, even from Home Depot, should fit. Installed quite a few and never had to recut a hole.
But, yes, you can cut a new hole. There is a special die punch that presses out the neatest rould hole and is usually in most plumber's and electrician's tool box. With the onset of CRS I once again fail to recall the name (I don't own one) but I think it might be Greenlee.
Perhaps you are measuring the hole in the plastic escutcheon that holds the sprayer. You have to remove that, along with the sprayer, to install the dispenser.
*Ralph: is CRS anything like KRAFT disease? (Kan't remember a .... thing) I wouldn't be surprised if my sink came from a tenth world country. The people who lived here previous to us renovated the whole house, as CHEAPLY as possible. Stuff that you don't see until you've lived here for a while. The sprayer comes through the same cover plate as the single-lever faucet, so the hole in the 8" faucet plate is only about 1/2 inch. So can I just go into the local Home Depot or Crappy Tire, and ask for a Greenlee punch?? Seems like the 'special die punch' might cost more than the soap dispenser. (And yes, I did buy it at Home Depot. At least they answer your questions in there and know where stuff is [at least, in our local one, they do]. If you go to Crappy Tire, they always send you to the wrong aisle. That is, if you can find someone to ask. And I hate going into the trades suppliers, I feel as though I'm wasting their time for some small single item request
*You can pick up a punch at Home Depot. 1/2 inch is $23.75, 3/4 inch is $32.50 and 1 inch is $35.75. In the tool department. Prices in your area my be slightly different. Home Depot also has a VERY liberal return policy.If your faucet is crappy you might consider changing it. A trip to the Depot will get you a faucet, single handle, with a built-in soap dispenser in the base.
*Thanks for all the info Ralph. So I guess what you're saying, is, be careful not to rip the package when I take out the punch, eh.
*I could be wrong, but the punches are probably meant for mild steel and might have a tough time with the stainless. So, when you return the item be sure to file off the rolled edge and touch it up with some black spray paint.
*I've got a set of those Greenlee punches, and while I've not tried it I can't see any reason to think they wouldn't go right through a cheesey 10th world sink. Home Depot is probably not where you'll find them though, electrical suppliers carry them. Joe H
*Just this day I used a Greenlee punch, bought at Home Depot, to punch a 19 gauge SS sink for a reverse osmosis system faucet. The stainless used in sinks is soft and tough. The punch works pretty well, but leaves a burred edge because it stretches far before it breaks off. That property is what makes it possible to deep-draw those 8" bowls! I used a rotary carbide burr in a drill motor to dress the burr at the hole's edge, but a Dremel tool would have been better/easier. The drill was close to hand. Greenlee's old style of punch has given me cleaner holes in SS sinks than I got today with a brand new "slugbuster" model. And the old one is a larger diameter, too. I once, years ago, gnawed a 1.25" hole in an 18 ga SS sink with a carbide grit holesaw. The punch is very much superior.Bill
*Don't even worry about it - they won't think twice about it. When I worked there, someone returned a circular saw, COVERED in saw dust. When asked if there was something wrong with it, they guy said, "No, I did what I needed to do and now I want my money back." He got it, too.
*Universal Construction Truth No. 1It's much easier to add a hole to a sink than adding a sink-hole. You may find exceptions in some parts of Florida, however.Best Idea I've had all Friday No. 1Go to Home Depot. Find a punch in the size needed. Go over to kitchen dept. Punch a hole in their sink. Go to the soap dispensers. Find yours on the shelf. Go back to the sink and try it out. If it fits, great, go home and repeat the process. If it doesn't, lay the tools down and ask where the restroom is.Ain't all this FREE advice great!!!!!Eric
*Unreal. I have this witty statement about it being much easier to add a sink to a hole than a hole to a sink, and I get beaten to it by a ghost BTer!Good to see you Eric, what you been doing, working or something?
*While a Greenlee punch would be my first choice (possibly because I happen to have a set) a Unibit step drill could probably also do the job. A 3/4" maximum step drill is about $22, so it might not be cheaper than the Greenlee punch, but you might have more uses for the step drill later on. (For anyone not sure what a step drill looks like you can go to http://www.unibitstepdrill.com/pi/toolsrch.asp or to get an illustration along with prices go to http://www.harborfreight.com/ and search on the keywords "step drill".) You might be able to do the job with a good hole saw, which would definitely be cheaper than a new punch. If the sink is mounted (as I assume it is) you would need to put something under the existing hole for the pilot drill (perhaps a short piece of 2x4 jambed into place with something). Lots of potential for disaster, however, if the block slipps and you scratch up the area around the hole.. Additional thought - I would guess that most well equipped tool rental shops would have the Greenlees, although I have never asked about them. A half day's rental should be at least slightly cheaper than buying...
*i A half day's rental should be at least slightly cheaper than buying... Yeah, but have you ever seen the look on their faces when you demand your money back after renting a tool ???b : )
*Thanks, guys. I've been looking more closely at the exit for the sprayer, and I think that with the collar and degenerated rubber removed, it may just be large enough...... as Ralph initially suggested. I have yet to clean all the stuff out from under the sink, and crawl in there and see how the sprayer hooks up. Or unhooks, as the case may be. I'm just worried about being mobbed by the carpenter ants when I crawl under there, but that was the subject of an old thread. Still got 'em. Wouldn't want to destroy nature, would we, DH?
*I forget to mention that I have also enlarged holes in sheet metal using the inexpensive cone shaped grinding stones that are that are available at many discount tool stores for a couple of bucks and are chucked into an electric grill. With a cone stone that has a large end bigger then the final hole is to be, you can enlarge the hole somewhat and still keep it round and centered on the other holes in the sink. You do need to be careful in not overheating the area around where you are grinding which would probably cause the stainless steel to permanently discolor. Hearing protection is strongly recommended when doing this...
*Using a hole saw on stainless steel will quickly make for a dull saw. I would use the punch.
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I'd like to put in one of those undermounted soap dispensers. I was going to use the hole in the faucet deck where the sprayer comes out (never use it anyhow). However, that's about a 1/2" hole, and the support base of the dispenser is about 3/4". So, I'm wondering, is it possible to drill out another hole in the deck of the sink (two-bowl, stainless) or am I just asking for trouble. There isn't enough room under the sink to be able to drill a hole in the counter-top off to the side of the sink. TIA.