Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 29, 1999 01:15am | #1

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   In a phrase: "I hope so." I've been tossing bits of rotten wood at houses for years... hoping to "seed" them for future business. In all honesty the rot left in there could become a home for wayward critters, and serves no purpose. Remove it, tell the customers, and indicate that a lesser craftsman might leave it in place. "...but ya never know what might happen, if ya just left it there.
   So we always take that kind of stuff out."

   The other option is to use a dry-rot bonding agent like "Git-Rot" which is poured into/on the rotten wood, and catylizes, hardening into a solid mass.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 29, 1999 03:57am | #2

   *Rot certainly is contagious. I caught it once from.....never mind that.If you can remove it without major structural work, do so. Rotted wood is very soft and sandblasts out nicely. Chemical treatments will help. I have been told that when the source of moisture is removed the rot will stop.

2. 
   ToolBear_ | Jul 29, 1999 12:56pm | #3

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   Larry,

   Wood rot is a fungus, just doing Nature's work by recycling dead wood. It can't tell that it's a 2x4 instead of a downed tree. Nor does it care. Add water and away it goes. Poria incrasata is the classic "dry rot". In the NorthWet, Poria weria (root rot)is the common cause of Doug fir wind throw.

   When the fungus forms a fruiting body (conk) and starts pumping out millions of spores, it really hopes that it's contagious. I doubt this has happened yet in your situation, but the fungus is willing to extend rhizomes to new areas for food or water. "Today the studs, tomorrow the headers!"

   ToolBear

3. 
   Guest_ | Jul 29, 1999 09:25pm | #4

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   I'd agree with previous posts- leaving rotten wood is just asking for trouble. Carpenter ants, termites .... the list goes on. It's food for various critters and organisms, none of which you want inside your walls.

4. 
   ToolBear_ | Jul 29, 1999 11:57pm | #5

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   Larry,

   Can you cut out the rotted sections and sister around them?

   I've used GitRot in boat applications. It works well; it costs like hell. I've used WEST epoxy (no polyester resins!)and microbaloons, WEST and chunks of dry wood for filler (WEST is also spendy).

   If you have to use expoy - use the WEST system. The metering pumps make it sooo easy to mix up a batch to the correct ratio. (Ratio not correct - it doesn't kick). Avoid the two can stuff that you have to eyeball. That works with Bondo, not expoy.

   Sealing the stuff in is like sealing over a cavity in your tooth. You'll be back at it later. Not good for the reputation.

   TB

5. 
   Guest_ | Jul 30, 1999 03:28pm | #6

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   I'd certainly remove any that was easy to remove. Framing that's structural is a must do. Non-structural as in your case may be easier to remove replace than to epoxy treat, but you have to make that call.

   But I've always understood and it's been my experience that when the moisture stops the decay stops. Carpenter ants also are attracted to moist wood. Though they will move beyond it into dry wood I think they need/want the moist wood as a starting point.

   I had a situation where an original cedar roof had two asphalt shingle layers above it. At the gutter the rain splash was causing the cedar to rot and the rot was working its way back under the asphalt endangering sheathing and rafters, though it hadn't moved that far yet. Ripping it back several courses I could have fully repaired it, but it was a lot of work and unless I went back with the same three layers (doubled up at starter course) there would have been an obvious thickness difference where the repair ended. A carpenter friend advised to slip aluminum drip edge under the asphalt to keep the splash away from the cedar and that the decay would stop until it was time to re-do the whole roof. It's been 5 years, the decay stopped when the water stopped and the re-roof is scheduled for this fall. So the point is, selectively you can leave decayed wood in place.

6. 
   Ron_Budgell | Jul 31, 1999 05:59am | #7

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   You might also try splashing in a bit of propylene glycol anti-freeze after the repair is complete. Let it dry some before insulating and closing up. It will keep them spores sleeping even if there's still some water around and is a lot less dangerous to humans than other preservatives.

7. 
   Guest_ | Aug 05, 1999 12:05am | #8

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   My understanding of rot is that it needs a high moisture content to be active. Eliminate the moisture source and the damage will stop. I believe the rot organism goes dormant rather than dies.

   If the wood is structurally sound and you want to kill the rot, rather than epoxies or anti-freeze, the best products to use are Borates. I use liquid Bora-care from Wood Care Systems (800-827-3480)which is diluted with water and sprayed on.

8. 
   Dale_Lenz | Aug 06, 1999 07:14pm | #9

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   I agree with the remove moisture and continue for not structural parts. Think about this, spalted wood usually used for turning material WAS beginning to rot. Once the wood is dried the potential ROT is nill. Have a nice day.

1. 
   kwiseman | Aug 08, 1999 02:17am | #10

   *I've used a product called 'Below Grade' its the same as the stuff that's used in pressure treating.It also works good as a wasp and hornet killer.Kind of burns your skin too.But it's supposed to stop the rot fungus.

9. 
   Larry_T. | Aug 08, 1999 02:17am | #11

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   Is rot contagious? I am doing some renovation / remodel work and have come across some non-structural framing that has rotten wood in it due to water penetration. The new work will prevent any future water entering the wall. Can this just be left where it is and enclosed without any future problems ?