What is the best space heater/job site heater? We currently use a fuel oil fired, but unvented, space heater. It provides tons of heat, but air quality is poor.
Propane works much better, but the cost is prohibitive.
I live and work in Alaska, so cold is a part of life. I work on a two-man crew, and we literally do “concrete to countertops.” Once “weathered-in”, heat greatly improves work life and quality tremendously.
We are leaning toward a vented oil fired heater.
Any suggestions? Advice?
Replies
I've been using a kerosene-fired 'salamander', which is rated at 150,000 btu, to heat an insulated and capped basement space. At 20 degrees outside, it's comfortable inside the basement if we fire the heater for thirty minutes every four hours. Unfortunately, the fumes (exhaust) created by the burner are intolerable if the unit is left running for any significant period of time.
I would definitely look into propane, or a vented oil-fired rig as you describe. Usually, a building under construction has a lot of 'holes' that act as airflow and vents, but once you're dried in and sealed up - gone is the ventilation.
I have discovered that even more of a problem than the fumes and the fuel consumption is the condensation and ice buildup that melts and drips all over the place. Propane burning creates a lot of water vapor, which may be even worse in that regard than oil.
If you're serious about good quality heat and can spend some serious money, an indirect unit is the way to go. We used one on a big job where we had to paint and drywall thru winter without the permanent heat set up. The units set up outside and pump air heated thru an exchanger so no fumes or moisture come in with the air. Tools of the Trade had a recent article on job site heaters at http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/articles/showarticle.asp?articleID=2217&position=1&type=article&partID=1 which has some vendor links. We rented ours, including the oil tank.
Hope this helps. Rich.
I was thinking about that sort of concept the other day. We used to always use th epropane and oil salamanders, then I caught a hot air furnace on the way to the dump and used it asa temp heat on our last two winter jobs, with pipe out the window for exhaust. I gave the unit to my FIL for his shop addition so this year we are back to salamanders and a couple of 220v electric heaters.
I was thinking that my older trailer could be fitted with a furnace and oil tank and an insulated plenum to pump hot air into a job
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Putting the unit on the trailer is a great idea
How about just a Water Heater on the trailer and hoses and an air handler in the house? Probably rig up something with "QD/no loss" couplings for the water hoses.. . .
Hmmmm....
I have a 50 or 60 gallon brand new ready to recycle domestic water heater ( electric) that could be fitted up for an antifreeze system. I would need the excange unit still...
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Would you run it with a genset, or hope for site power to plug it in? Be nice to heat the place on the site owner's dime. - That or charge for time on the genset hour meter?
Since I dop remo work, the owner provides the power already on site.
But this all got me to thinking, that could not be an efficient use of money to use electric that way. I doubt I'd get enough BTUs.But now that we are talkig generators, the thought of a co-generator comes bouncing into my mind.Where is Junkhound? This is his venue!
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maybe some car radiators would work? could gang up as many as you need with some hose clamps and radiator hose. Unfortunately I don't have a good idea of how many BTUs you would get per radiator.
Just a thought. Rich.
I use a kerosene salamander . 150,000 btu.
The way I run mine is off a thermostat. Set it at 65 or what ever and leave it . The space gets warm and the unit shuts off . After a 24 hr period the air quality is ok. They do need regualar maintence cleaning . No Diesel , as it gunks up the points or the plug. You need a pressure meter to set them with and can be ordered as an accessory to the unit. Mine runs at 4 lbs .
A lot of people have switched to heat strips from an old unit and bring appropriate sized cable from the meter loop. Trouble id the meter loop is never big enough. As soo as you can go from temp to perm , youre ready.
Tim Mooney