Hey all,
I’m in the process of designing a bookcase system for a customer. In a nutshell, it will have 30″ tall base cabinets with doors, 12″ deep. Above will be shelving, 8″ deep. The whole system will be going floor-to-ceiling with crown going across the top.
This system will be going across two walls that meet at about a 40 degree angle (see the sketch attached).
What is the best way to join the two bookcases at the 40 degree corner?
Joe
Replies
I'd make the cases square and screw both of them to a kite-shaped corner filler.
Bill
I like that idea. My only concern is that the top is only 8" deep and the base is 12" deep. For the sake of discussion, I'll refer to the piece of the kite that is visible from the front as the face. Would it look funny to have a 3" face between the bases and about a 6"-7" face between the uppers?
Build them in separate pieces. Install the base units, install the countertop, then install upper units that are a few inches wider.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Obviously you need to buy some 40 degree screws.
Ok, how will the cases be built. Will they be square like boxes, so you end up with a dead triangle in the corner? Or will they be trapezoid shaped so all the space is used?
I'm guessing square boxes. No problem at the back, fasten them to the wall like cabinets. At the front, rip some stock to 40 degrees and use it right behind the face frame to make a wide filler, and screw both cases to the filler.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Build a filler unit to fit in the corner thatthe bookcase on either side will butt up to. There is not enough info on the design of the cases to give more then a couple suggestions.
Gables of the lower units can fit tight together with an angled filler block between for something to screw each gable to. Tops of those two ajoining units can be extended and mitered together. Upper cabs can be extended so their end gables meet as the lower cabs or kept to same length as bottom cabs and miter two filler panels at the front of the space between.
Bottom cabs could also be done with a mitered filler, maybe each panel as wide as the thickness of a gable. Would require the upper panels to be a bit wider but would look a bit neater.
If this is a really high-end job with face frames and/or lots of fancy moulding, be creative.
Paul
High end, but very traditional. Dark cherry with simple crown and maybe some fluted uprights. 9' foot ceiling. He said he wants to stick a tv into it too.
I like the idea of making the tops an inch or two wider than the bases, that wouldn't look funny to anyone?
It will look fine. Fast Eddie gets the milkbones for suggesting it first.Bill
Build the lower cabinets seperate from the top and the uppers. Mitre the lower frames to make the angle.
Build the uppers seperate and do the same with the mitred inside corners. Don't put a bottom on the upper cabinets, use the top for that.
make the top seperate and miter the inside angles so the top runs horizontal the the face of the cabinets. Scrivbe the top to the walls and temporarily attach the top to the lowers.
Now fit the upper cabinets on the counter top and attach the uppers together. Mark where the uppers sit on top and detach the top from the lowers. Attach the uppers to the top from underneath the countertop either by pulling it all forward or turning the uppers/countertop upside down. Make this all one piece and slide it back onto the lowers and screw the counter top to the lowers and the screw the uppers uppers to the wall. Attach the crown to the cabinets and the ceiling.
This can be done unfinished or prefinished. I would make the countertop first then finish it as one piece.
You might consider making the left end of the cabinet a right angle to the door way.
Migraine - you have a very fitting screen name. I think I need to read your answer a couple more times before it sinks in.
"You might consider making the left end of the cabinet a right angle to the door way."
Can you expound on this idea?