Ok, getting a bundle of lumber for my deck. Construction will span a few weeks. Once I open the bundle do I need to do something to keep the wet (unused) boards from bending? Or will the weight be enough?
Sorry, this has probably been discussed. Just can’t think of how to do a good search without a lot of “noise”.
thanks-
kevin
Replies
Find a flat, level place to stack the wood -- the wood won't stay flat if it's not stored flat. (Make sure the space is long enough for the longest piece.)
Use pieces of lumber (at least 2x4, preferably thicker) under the stack every 2-3 feet to hold it off the ground. Ideally, get several bundles of lath at the lumber yard and "sticker" the wood between every layer as you stack it. At the very least "sticker" every few layers with scrap lumber.
Place more scrap every few feet across the top and then cover LOOSELY with a tarp, if significant rain is likely. Otherwise leave uncovered.
If it's southern yellow pine, the best thing you can do is keep it out of the sun...stickering it in the garage works well...good luck! Someone's got it in for me, they're planting stories in the press
Whoever it is I wish they'd cut it out but when they will I can only guess.
They say I shot a man named Gray and took his wife to Italy,
She inherited a million bucks and when she died it came to me.
I can't help it if I'm lucky.
Good points. Keep out of sun, sticker the wood.
BTW, what does a scrap piece of wood every few layers do that a well stacked bundel of 20 layers doesn't? Is the whole idea to give the wood room to breathe so it dries out? If I start the project on day 1 with wet wood and finish on day 20 with dried is their going to be shrinkage issues with the constructed deck?
You want the wood to dry evenly. If it dries faster on one side than the other then it's going to warp (worse). Also, if you don't sticker the wood then the wood you've already used will dry faster, and there WILL be problems as the wetter wood dries and shrinks, pulling joints open, etc.You're right that there is a problem with wood shrinking as you use it, even when stickered, but it's one of measurement, not "compatibility" between pieces (if they are able to all dry at the same rate). A railing that measures exactly 20 feet initially will end up a quarter-inch or so shorter when dry, so when cutting mating pieces you have to take actual measurements from the existing, vs working from what the length is "supposed to be".
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
"so when cutting mating pieces you have to take actual measurements from the existing, vs working from what the length is "supposed to be"."
That's brilliant. Never thought of that.
Experience.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
kevreh, take note that Dan suggested to sticker every layer and not just every few layers. Air flow across all sides equally will help the drying to be uniform across the board.
Ok. Will spacing them be enough to prevent warpage, or do you need weight or maybe straps on them (kind you use to tie down stuff in a truck).
Depends on how badly warped. If you have any 1x stock, put a couple of layers of 2x above it.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
I've used the strap trick on a pallet of 1x6pt that was for a fence. I had pretty darn good luck with straight boards out of the pallet, maybe 6 boards out of the whole pallet of 10ft-ers were warped too much to use. I also had the luxury of having the space and time to let it sit for 6 to 8 weeks with fan circulating air through the pallet. They were primed & painted prior to installation. If you're going to strap it, it's critical that your stickers are identical thickness and the pallet is sitting flat on whatever you set it up on. Set the straps about every 2ft or so & set them tight and recheck the tension as it dries.
If it were me, which it isn't.
If taking a couple weeks to go through a bndl of treated wood-I would order the load with the framing/posts on top of the decking. I'd let them slide it off onto some scrap 2x4's as flat as possible so when the banding was cut it wouldn't keel over.
I'd cover immediately to retain the moisture. This way the wet on the last day might just be close to the wet on day one. This is especially beneficial to maintain the same end result spacing on the decking. It also might keep the wood from going bananna's as happens when it drys loose (without being fastened).
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I've got a pile stickered and drying right now. Should be fine when I start. Get your lumber early so it will dry a bit.
I'll echo what others have said about the drying. Keep it out of the sun if possible and even if you can, put a tarp over it.
If the construction will take several weeks, why don't you get it delivered in the stages you'll need it. There is nothing worse than having all kinds of lumber stacks around, they get it the way if you don't need them. Get your frame material delievered, then let the lumber company know you'll need the decking on (fill in the day) then when your near the end of the decking, call for the rails, stairs etc. You won't have to worry about material drying unevenly and you won't have everything laying around possibly getting in the way. Any lumber yard will drop this way, they don't care.
Good idea. Thought I'd save on delivery and get a better price break with a larger order. Guess I can tell them I'll use them for the whole project.
Kevin