Recommendations for what type/length screws to use to fasten ktichen cabs to wall and to one another? Hickory cabs.
Thanks
Skippy
Recommendations for what type/length screws to use to fasten ktichen cabs to wall and to one another? Hickory cabs.
Thanks
Skippy
Source control, ventilation, and filtration are the keys to healthy indoor air quality. Dehumidification is important too.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Fine Homebuilding
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
© 2024 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start Your Free TrialStart your subscription today and save up to 81%
SubscribeGet complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
Depends on several things.
For hanging, what is the "hanger" for the cabinet boxes? A 7/16" nailer behind an 1/8" veneer back is different than a 5/8" frameless carcass back is different than "french" rails, and so on.
What wall are the cabs to be mounted to? 1/2" SR on 16" 2x studs is a different answer than the same with blocking, or with plywood let into the wall board. If the kitchen is a remodel and has several layers of "wall" on it, that's different, too. Galvanized studs are yet another answer.
Do you have any 'odd' conditions like cabinet boxes under 18" wide? Those can be "single stud" cabinets, which is an additional complication in making one simple answer.
With hickory faceframe cabinets, you likely need a fine threaded screw to connect the frames together. The length ought to be about 1.5 "stiles" long (for 1.5" stiles, that's a 2.25" screw, for instance). Being hickory, predrilling is almost mandatory, if only to not snap off the lovely screws generally available out there. For frameless cabinets, the carcass material will guide you for fasteners--some materials will "want" a coarseer thread, some will want finer.
82203.2 in reply to 82203.1
Depends on several things.
I guess I should've given you more info.
For hanging, what is the "hanger" for the cabinet boxes? A 7/16" nailer behind an 1/8" veneer back is different than a 5/8" frameless carcass back is different than "french" rails, and so on.
The cabs are Haas standard stuff. Looks like 7/16 nailer behind 1/8 veneer.
What wall are the cabs to be mounted to? 1/2" SR on 16" 2x studs is a different answer than the same with blocking, or with plywood let into the wall board. If the kitchen is a remodel and has several layers of "wall" on it, that's different, too. Galvanized studs are yet another answer.
New construction- 1/2 DW 16 OC with blocking everywhere.
Do you have any 'odd' conditions like cabinet boxes under 18" wide? Those can be "single stud" cabinets, which is an additional complication in making one simple answer.
Nothing small. Pretty standard stuff.
With hickory faceframe cabinets, you likely need a fine threaded screw to connect the frames together. The length ought to be about 1.5 "stiles" long (for 1.5" stiles, that's a 2.25" screw, for instance). Being hickory, predrilling is almost mandatory, if only to not snap off the lovely screws generally available out there. For frameless cabinets, the carcass material will guide you for fasteners--some materials will "want" a coarseer thread, some will want finer.
Looking at http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?sid=394 but some folks are telling me to make sure I use "case hardend" screws to attach cabs.
Thanks for help.
The cabs are Haas standard stuff. Looks like 7/16 nailer behind 1/8 veneer.
Ok, that just makes it a math issue. Call it about 3/4 of carcass structure to go through, and then 2/3 of the blocking, plus the wall board. That's 3/4 + 1 + 1/2, so, a person could probably get some #6 x 2 1/4 and be "all good."
I like to use square drive screws when I can for cabinet hanging, but phillips will work. I've always tried to match the finishes, using a dark screw in dark cabs and vice versa (have to love melamine cabs with black anodized square-drives hanging 'em <g>)
Since you have blocking, you can do things like always use at least 4 screws per upp or every 12 or so inches on center, rather than whatever odd rhythm the studs versus the cabs "makes."Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Skippy,
For hanging cabinets, I use screws specifically designed for that purpose by GRK:
http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/CAB_1_information.htm
In most cases, I use the 2-1/2" length, but I keep the 2-3/4" length on hand for cabinets that are shimmed off the wall. These screws are very strong, but have thinner shafts than most brands, self-tap beautifully, and seldom split mounting rails.
For joining standard faceframes together I use 2-1/2" trimhead screws:
http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/TRIM_0_information.htm
For hickory, I drill an 1/8" pilot and make a countersink for the trimhead with a Unibit. The bit I use makes a perfect countersink for these trimheads...I just stop at the second step on the bit:
Thanks for the help. Will the unibit handle lots of hickory or should I have on hand a couple of these?
Skippy
The Unibit will keep drilling countersinks for several entire kitchens, even with hickory.