I’m building an oak face frame cabinet to fit under the open space beneath the desk-type counter in my kitchen. The stiles were originally 25 ” long and I cut a 1/4 ” deep dado to accept the side panels. I yellow glued the side panels but only clamped the ends. I had to cut the stiles down to 20″ and noticed that the side panel on the cut end of one stile did not bottom out in the dado (only went half way in). I took a thin wire and was able to push it down the gap about 4″. The other stile’s side panel bottomed out.
I have 2 questions;
1. Will my glue joint be strong enough to support a 14″ X 19″ panel door?
2. Will 1/8″ out of plumb over 20″ prevent an overlay door from fitting properly?
Replies
The glue joint might hold
and the door out of plumb on the hinge side can be adjusted out with good cup hinges. Many will have a simple dial in/out adjustment for the hinge body. This will paralell it with the closing side. You'll have a bit of a difference in the gap from the door to the face frame on the hinge side.
Another glue joint question
If the glues joint is 'iffy' would a small corner block glued to the back of the face frame and the side panel help? Or should I drive some pin nails through the front of the face frame into the side panel?
Also, I'm matching the hinges used on the other cabinet doors which wrap around the face frame and are screwed to the inside of the cabinet door. The other cabinet doors don't contact the face frame on the hinge side due to the thickness of the hinge. Will this set-up look ok with my plumb situation?
Thank You
Sure
Reinforcement blocking would make the frame to panel connection better. A continuous (or pcs.) of 1/2x1/2 back behind the frame and to the side panel would be fine.
But, with those hinges, there's no in/out adjustment of the door-just left and right, up and down................if you are describing the way I'm understanding the hinge.
So, eventho there's a reveal between the back of the door and the faceframe, it's even. As the door closes on the opposite stile, it'll be in that same plane (slightly out of plumb) so the gap will be bigger top or bottom.
Might make the door appear "warped:".
I think it's worth it to give it a shot-if it bothers you, remove it and go to plan B.
Is Plan B 'get a new hobby' ?
nah.
Fool the eye. Put one door bump on the bigger gap corner and don't let anyone collapse in a heap and look up.
I'd hang it and see if you can live with it.
If not, you could shim behind one door hinge to bring it out to where it should be. The reveal on the other side should be "right"?