I’m in the process of remodeling my kitchen. I have a 3 pane bow window
directly behind the sink with the sill at the same level as the countertop. I wand to extend the countertop into the sill area as one piece. I’m limited, cost wise, to Formica, Ceramic Tile, or Granite/Quartz squares.
Question # 1 is regarding the mating of the countertop with the sill. I can see no good way for a mechanical connection of the two.
With no mechanical connection, would the Formica pull away or crack at this point due to weather changes? Any experience with this? For me with my experience, Formica would be the easiest route.
If I go with Ceramic tile, granite or quartz, would a sub base of 1/4″ Hardi Board be the way to go? Would nailing/screwing and gluing the Hardi Board accomplish the mecanical connection to avoid cracks?
Lastly, what is a good method of transfering the dimensions of this projection and getting precise cuts on the formica for a one piece lay down of countertop into the sill area? This, of course is moot for tile.
Hope you can help me. By the way, this is a project in Minnesota, whre temperature extremes are common.
Thanks,
Jim B
Replies
Since no one else has replied, I'll give you a relatively uniformed reply to give you something to think about while keeping the thread current so others will see it.
I would use 3/4" plywood as a subbase and make the one piece go into the window bump out. Plywood is stronger. Screw it to the cabinets from below (making sure the screws are short enough not to penetrate through the face of the plywood. (That's assuming your cabinet base isn't already built.) The guy I work with uses something called Novaply as the base under Formica (laminate). I guess if your counter base is already there, and 3/4 would be to thick, you might get away with less, but I'd go as thick as I could (up to 3/4).
Make a template out of kraft paper or similar. You can piece it together using masking tape "in situ" so it fits exactly, then remove it and trace it on your laminate.
If you must splice the subbase at the window, use bisquits or bolts in figure-eight shaped holes routed in the underside, or some similar method of mechanical fastening.
The Hardie adds no strength to the installation ... it just makes for a nice surface to accept tile.
Rather than kraft paper, which is a traditional choice, consider using shirt cardboard ... it won't tend to curl like the paper. Cut a piece almost as big as the area, maybe an inch short all around, and then cut a bunch of 2-3 inch strips. Lay the big piece in the middle, and tape the strips to it to follow the exact perimeter. Poster board would work well.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Thanks all for the info.
As it stands, the substrate, which is 5/8 Particle board, when laid on the cabinets is flush with with the sill.
As I interpret the suggestions, I could add a 1/4" layer of plywood to the substrate and sill as one piece extending into the window pushout, then lay the laminate over that. Am I on the right track?
Thanks for the suggestions for making a template. This is going to work.(without caulk)
Jim
Yeah, that's what I meant about 1/4" plywood--counter and window sill all in one piece--may want to ask others here if that's thick enough to work and if Novaply (sp?) comes in 1/4" as it might be better than other plywood. I've just heard that tile backer will add no strenght and you don't need that joint opening up later! I'm by no means an expert on this, but glad I could help.
Oh, what another guy said is very good advice--glue the laminate to the substrate first, then route the edges and glue the substrate to the subbase (I'd say screws too, but hard to do from underneath and get any bite into 1/4" without risk of popping a screw up through the laminate. Hard to trim the laminate until it's glued down (with contact adhesive) and impossible to trim that back edge at the window once it's in place and hard to route the front edge where it butts walls (if it does). The guy I work with strengthens the overhanging front edge with a second layer of Novaply, then puts oak trim 1x2 on flush to the surface of the substrate. He glues the laminate over that and routes the laminate and puts a bevel or ogee on the oak at the same time.
Edited 9/26/2004 9:13 pm ET by Danno
Mating the countertop with the sill will not give a good result, the seam will be very noticable
The best way is to build the substrate such that it extends into the window and then laminate, funny thing is that i'm doing the same thing on a job this week
Another way is to join already laminated section using rergular countertop bolts, resulting in a seam across the window opening
Accurate cutting and fitting of the substrate before laminating and then sliding it into place after laminating will be far easier than trying to laminate in place
caulking is not a piece of trim
finally got a chance to check out the lastest threads and I am right up your alley on this one. I've done this exact manuever several times. So here goes with my two cents. If given the chance can you step up the window ledge to craete a break which will solve your seaming issue and make it easier to keep the window seat clean.?
If not --laminating in place is The Way to Go because even if you bolt that seam if it opens ever open the least little bit ( We Mn. know that won't happen right?) the sink water splash will reck havec on it. and even if the sink splash is keept to a min. will you ever wash around the sink and get it wet?
IME you will be much happier not having any seam to worry about. Post me if I can help anymore. Mike
When transferring patterns I use Manila file folders and 3 x 5 index cards they are cheap and work better than paper.
George Bush
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