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Whenever I have such a detail with a wood that splits easily I usually manufacture and install some sort of backing for the mouldings. I always
provide some good solid backing to uppers prior to attaching crown. This is not a particullarly time consuming process and eliminates the need to place nails ineffectively.
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Whenever I have such a detail with a wood that splits easily I usually manufacture and install some sort of backing for the mouldings. I always
provide some good solid backing to uppers prior to attaching crown. This is not a particullarly time consuming process and eliminates the need to place nails ineffectively.
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Greg,
I'm using more and more polyurethane construction adhesive these days as trim gets skinny and brittle. This stuff sets up pretty fast, bonds tenaciously, doesnt need alot. Fewer nails farther from the edge will hold it til it sets, or even use masking tape.
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Take a 7/64" bell hangers bit (about 12" long) and cut it off to the desired length and chuck in your favorite #8 countersink bit.
What's the big deal to pilot drill and hand drive a few finish brads in the hickory trim? It beats the heck out of splitting the trim and the added cost of replacing them. If this doesn't fit in the budget, then the budget is to small. You should move on to something more profitable.
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Hi. My husband is installing our new kitchen. The house is made from cement block. The floor is marble. We are also using a granite countertop. He is not planning on anchoring the bottom cabinets to the wall. Actually due to the location of some pipes, they may not rest upon the wall at all. They are all fastened together at this point, but he says the weight of the countertop will keep the cabinets in place and he does not need to anchor them to the wall. Please respond before it is too late.
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Hi Stephanie,
Not anchoring the cabinetry is not a new idea to start with. In most European homes the kitchen cabinetry is removable and goes with the owner whenever they sell the house.
If your cabinets are of good quality and securely attached to one another, the granite top siliconed to the unit, it should behave as one piece.
Besides if it doesn't work out you can always anchor later.
Gabe
*I have to differ with you Gabe. Euro cabinets aren't neccessarily anchored permanently to the wall, but they are typically attached, with special purpose hardware (all the German and Austrian hardware companies supply them-Blum, Hafele, etc). If they up and move the kitchen, they reinstall the hardware in the new location. This final step adds a lot of stability to the whole system.
*Thanks for the advice. Looks like a good time to buy that 13oz. trim hammer I've been wanting.
*In my admittedly limited experience, a couple of screws was plenty to connect the combined cabinets to the wall, especially in a corner. Some people tell you to go nuts screwing everything down, bu I don't see the point. Why use construction adhesive on the entire countertop for example? Or am I missing something. Well, my minimal approach produced a very solid feel even without granite -- don't worry Stephanie, the cabinets will be OK. When he tells you that drywall screws are enough to hold up the chandelier, worry.Hey, we can attach pictures now!
*AdrianKinda looks more like a pergola. . .. I'd see you and raise you one but my scanner is acting up, maybe next week-pm
*That's the second time you've gotten me and Andrew mixed up. Stop it! Me little brain can only handle so much (I'm so confused...)
*With respect, Andrew, what feels solid under normal conditions can go south fast when the drunken 250 pound part guest decides to haul himself up on the counter for some dirty dancing.Or the kids bring home the little demon friend from school. Might never happen, but. As a cabinetmaker, I carry a lot of libility insurance that I don't want to ever have to use. Depending on the situation, I might leave one or two cabs in a run unsecured, but their neighbors get extra anchors, and the uppers get plenty plenty. Besides which, the more rigid the installation, the better luck you'll have with your door gaps and drawer slides over the long run. A 3" screw costs me a nickel, money well spent imo.
*The client wanted to call it an "arbor" .. it just stuck, I guess. I'm not too picky about nomenclature. It is the first picture I found on my hard disk.Your scanner's "acting up"? How do i know you're not going to run out and build a pergola over the weekend? You Canadians are so competitive.
*Mmm... good point ... we just have tamer guests. I do fasten the heck out of the wall cabinets. With the corner installed units it would take some doing to move them since the screws are in shear. I guess I view the base cabinets as being relatively benign. Plus this is "just" my home ... with other people's homes I worry MUCH more, estimating their survival instincts at less than zero. My contract also says "all warranties void if some blotto overweight moron mounts said Contractor's work to perform lewd and lascivious display."I exaggerated when I said a "few" screws. But I didn't use as many as the cabinetmaker supplied.... Maybe I'll shoot a few extra over the long weekend if I'm bored... Nah, only if the in-laws show up, then it'll be an emergency.
*AndrewianTwasn't me tother time. . . didn't actually mix you guys up, just sticky fingers, by the time I noticed it was too late to edit and I sure didn't want to delete it and increase yourb paranoia!! Cripes yer both Scotts so what hae d'ffrence laddie??-pm
*"Scots" one "t" at least you didn't say "scotch," which is tape or a fine beverage :)
*Two Scot's two TT's (one person :})-pm
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We've been installing alot of hickory kitchen cabinets lately and does anyone have a technique for applying the hickory moldings? The crown and dentils are so hard that my 18g brad shooter sometimes won't sink the brads.If I get the finish nailer out it splits them since you have to nail so close to the edge when applying to top cabinets. Predrilling and hand nailing is out, not enough money in it for that routine.
Also does anyone know of a bit for drilling the stiles that can drill the pilot, oversize the first stile and drill the countersink in one bit? Thanks for any help.
*GregSounds to me like a pilot drill and hand nail job. All you guys that have gone over to pnuematics should take a lesson. . . they may be fast, but speed isn't always everything, especially with trim!!!The drill bit you're after should be readily available. . . from cheapies that drill an arbitrary countersink to more expensive ones that drill a precise hole for a tight plug. Some have tapered drill bits, others not. Try your local tool crib. . . I have several that I use for different applications. The better ones have an adjustable collar to set the depth of the countersink and the drill bit on all have a set screw for depth adjustment as well.-pm