Let’s say one was to reface an older kitchen. I found only one old FHB article on the subject, in which Rex Alexander describes using iron-on veneer on the face frames.
He claims not to get callbacks, but really: iron-on? I can see how it might work after adequate surface prep, but still. . . I’m not sure if that would go the distance.
How’s the pressure-sensitive stuff? It strikes me that it might be difficult to apply.
Replies
The iron-on actually works pretty well, at least to my experience. I haven't refaced cabinets, or done any wood veneer iron on, but I've used the end kits for off the shelf laminate countertops. What I do is once it's good and hot, I work it down with the edge of a 1x or 2x, and don't stop till it's cooled down. I even have an iron with my tools for just that purpose.
Also, it's not that tricky to work with. Like any veneer, it takes some patience. Getting some practice before tackling a real project is not a bad idea. As for adequate surface preparation, that applies equally to any type of veneer.
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I agreed to finish a kitchen another guy botched all to heLL. The pressure senstive stuff he applied didnt look too hot. I had to put five or so peices of it on and it was a first for me.
The product itself work niceley, I made peices a little big and used sand paper to get it perfect. If you want to invest the time (A LOT) you can get acceptable results. It dosent stick too bad untill you have put pressure on it its not like contact cement you could reposition it if you wanted. Once you pressure it it wont come off. Surface must be absoulty clean with no voids.
My final thoughs were that it would be to use it in certain areas would be ok but bad idea for everything. I would have considered making face frames and pocket screwing them to the old carcasses. Then new doors and hardware
I've done a few kitchen refacing jobs using the pressure sensitive stuff & they have turned out well. I think the first was six or seven years ago & no problems. Never tried the iron-on veneer before. Like the other poster said, press it lightly into place to position it; once you hit it with the roller, it isn't coming off.
As far as surface prep, all I've ever done is wash it down with a bit of detergent & water, then go over it with just a damp rag to get any soap residue off. Let it dry & you're good to go.
One catch to the PSA is that it won't stick to raw wood. If any joints have to be sanded to get them flush, I use spray lacquer to cover the bare wood.
The veneer I have used is some of the prettiest I've ever seen - almost a shame to rip it into little 2" strips. :)
It is kind of time-consuming, especially cutting the joints. I'd really recommend a laminate slittler for ripping the veneer to width.
Mike
bump
Biff, what else do you want to know, you got some good answers.
Whether the iron-on veneer will last. Really.And: thanks for the replies, everyone!
Edited 6/13/2008 5:08 pm ET by Biff_Loman
The iron on lasts on counters, I have to assume it would last on cabinets.
Maybe someone over in Knots has had more expierence with it.