Hey Fellas, I am a cabinet maker and have to install the kitchen on this one, Its a total tear-out down to the studs. This job is for my Aunt and she wants me to do the whole job. I’m ok with it!! The House is old (knob and tube, ballon frame,no fire stop anywhere,out of square, out of plumb etc….. I am installing a window 48 x32 in a wall thats out of plumb about 1-7/8. The house has cedar siding and then alluminum on to. I sistered 2×4’s allong side the old stud wall. My question is what happens outside when I go to cap the trim in alluminum? The bottom of the window on the outside will be much further out then the top. Any advice or will I be what it will be.
Thanks, Lou
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What you are worried about is that this will be more likely to leak, given the lean of the wall.
But typical window installation details prevent against leaks with the force of an 80 MPH wind driving water into a wall. I am willing to bet the rest of that old wall will not handle that as well as this window will.
If you are just looking at the window and wal alone with no wind, the surface tension of the water will guide it down and off faster than it wicks in with it that steep.
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I'm worried about astetics on the exterior. I'll flash the heck out of it.
-Lou
I mis-understood. Are you saying that you would install the window plumb and that the wall is out at the top?
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That's what it sounds like to me. I install the window flush with the wall when the wall is leaning out at the top. This way the interior and exterior trim go on easier and you're not drawing attention to the fact that the wall is out of plumb. Since the wall leans out at the top, you're increasing the pitch of your sill and drip cap, which certainly doesn't hurt in the water-shedding department.Loucarabasi, as the cabinet maker for this job, just give yourself some extra large scribes on the uppers and you can still hang the cabinets plumb. Consider, when designing the sides of the cabients, that you'll be doing this and keep the stiles (if it's a paneled design) large to help hide difference in thickness from top to bottom.
Sounds like he has already reframed the walls plumb, which I totally agree with. Hanging the window plumb also would make the extension jambs look right from inside, so the only problem is making the window flashing fit right.
or the casing out there will need a scribe. I'll take that over scribing a wall ful of cabinets anyday.
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Lou,
I don't know how the other windows are trimmed, but from the vintage of the home, trim details like in this pic might work. Kitchen windows are often treated differently...that might give you some freedom.
Anyways, the deep sloped sill pictured can allow apron trim to tuck under a protruding window bottom without being noticed. Window boxes could also help.
5/4x4 trim on the sides could help hide the tilt of the wall some. My pic shows standard 1x4.
Oops Pic didn't make it:
The window will most likely look best if in plane with the exterior wall. The jamb extensions on the inside will then need to be tapered.
Rather than adding a second thin tapered jamb extension to the factory jamb extension it looks much better to make it one piece.
If the tapered jamb extension is objectionable then the window is set plumb and the exterior trim and/or siding is fudged to hide the issue. In your case that would be removing the aluminum siding, shimming the wall with tapered nailers and reinstalling the siding.
Best of luck
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
To all, The whole kitchen was reframed. well kind of!! I framed a room within a room. I had to everything square and plumb becouse the cabinet I built are inset doors and there is no room for error. With a framing background and knowing how these cabs will go in, it will be easy to install becouse of the many nailers I put in. On the window Its just gonna look funky on the outside scribed. Besides all the trim was finished to match cabinets. I'll send pictures of the job
Thanks for the concern fellas, lou