Hey all,
Does anyone out there know why they say to put the paper face on fiberglass insulation toward the living space?
I’m insulating the ceiling in my shop (rough 3×8’s on 17.5 inch centers, 1400 sq. ft.) I am hanging the sheetrock on it now and I plan to drop in the insulation from above and then board over the second floor. That way I dont have to staple it up over my head and break my neck. Anyway I can’t decide if I should put the insulation (6″ R-19) in with the paper down or up? Also should I shove it down all the way so it touches the sheetrock or keep it up leaving an air space underneath it? I would like to put the paper face up to block saw dust that will fall through between the floor boards. The second floor of the shop will have only one layer of floor boards (rough 5/4 x 8)
I appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks
Cushing, Maine
Replies
'Cause the Kraft paper is a vapor retarders, and vapor retarders go toward the warm side. Install it the other way, and you're likely to get condensation inside the insulation.
Andy
"Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig." Robert A. Heinlein
"Get off your dead #### and on your dying feet." Mom
The kraft paper is a vapor barrier and like the previous poster said, always goes to the warm side, which would be the interior of the building in cold climates and toward the exterior of the building in hot climates. Since you are putting it between two heated spaces you don't need it. Unfaced would be better.
If you want to use it for dust control like you say, then as far as thermal and moisture performance goes it doesn't matter since neither side will be much colder than the other.
For that sort of application - save some money and use unfaced
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Assuming the two areas are the same temp, then no vapor barrier required. Otherwise put up plastic sheets under the drywall first for a vapor barrier.
(the purpose is to keep the moisture in the warm area. otherwise the moisture condenses on the cold surface.)
Use blown in and you don't have to cut anything and you can lay boards right on top of it. Quick cheap and no staples required.
You must own the 5/4 by 8's. Otherwise buy plywood or Beaver barf board in sheets 1-1/8" 4x8's. It would be cheaper and more structurally sound particularily if you ran a glue bead on top of the joists before nailing. It would cut down on the bouncing of the joists upstairs.
I just saw where you are from.
I'm on Islesboro and have a sorta relative in Cushing
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
A sortarelative? I thought you had to be from W. Virginia for that?
Not to hijack (OK, that's as lame as starting an insult with, "No offence, but..."), was it you that recommended The Salt Book? If so, thanks. Love it.Andy
"Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig." Robert A. Heinlein
"Get off your dead #### and on your dying feet." Mom
Once upon a time, I think.For some other folksey reading, look for something by Virginia
Thorndike
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
A repeat customer of mine has The Salt Book in her main hall bath. I have delighted in reading parts of it on my breaks.
Thanks everyoneThe upstairs will not always be heated, just occasionally with a wood stove. I'll put the paper face down .Piffin, I love Isleboro.I know some people out there. I grew up out on Isle ah Haut. I miss island life. Brookfield Woodworking
Cushing, Maine