Replies

1. 
   retiree | May 10, 2005 05:17am | #1

   Yes, the edges first.  Use a straight trimmer to trim them down equal to the thickness of your flakeboard or plywood base.  Then put on the top.  This is trimmed with a 22 degree trimmer so it won't deface your edges.  Be careful when setting the depth on the 22 degree trimmer so you don't take off too much.  Best to test on a separate piece to get the edge you want.  As you lower the bit it will cut deeper.  A router will work fine.  No need to spend the money on a laminate trimmer.  If you're worried about control on a thin piece the nback it up with a heavier piece clamped to your workpiece in order to provide a wider surface for the router.

1. 
   MSA1 | May 10, 2005 05:48am | #3

   Thanks for the answers. Didnt even occur to me about the angled bit. Makes sense.

    

2. 
   DougU | May 10, 2005 05:45am | #2

   To add to active retiree's post, if you don't get the router bit down quite close enough, and maybe you don't want to on your first try, clean the edge up with a file.

   You don't want to be able to hook your finger nail on the underside of the top piece as you drag then up vertically. That's how you can tell if your done filing.

   Doug

1. 
   MSA1 | May 10, 2005 05:50am | #4

   I think making a couple of passes is a good idea. In this case better to cut twice.

   Edited 5/9/2005 10:51 pm ET by MSA1

3. 
   G80104 | May 10, 2005 06:11am | #5

   Check this out, http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60210

    Its a start.

4. 
   DaveRicheson | May 10, 2005 01:20pm | #6

   Or, use a bearing guide flush cutting bit for all trimmed edges.

   clean the bearing after each run and it won't stick. Use the clean up solvent recommended for the contact adhesive you use.

   I personaly use a pilot bit w/o the bearing and an wax lubricant on the edges. Experience counts with the technique. Feed rate and "feel" for the tool are biggies here. Keeping contact cement off of the sufaces not being laminated is another key. That little bit of excess cement on the bearing edge, where the bit run, will foul a pilot or bearing guide bit.

   BTW, if you are going to do more tops, buy the laminate trimmer kit. You wll find them much more versatile for more complicated tops, and easier to handle on any top. Beside, you wouldn't have mentioned, if you didn't really want one anyway :)

    

   Dave

1. 
   basswood | May 10, 2005 03:21pm | #8

   I use a bearing guided bit with masking tape on the laminate edge for the first pass. The contact cement goobers collect on the tape and I pull the goobers off with the tape for a clean second pass (cleaning off the bearing too).

1. 
   buildit4you | May 10, 2005 11:20pm | #9

   and another thing.........make sure your edges are good and square, with either of the bits mentioned an out out square edge could break your heart! I use both then tune up with a "MICA" knife and plastic cut file, even a touch with #100 sandpaper to top it off!Good times, riches and Son of a _itches

   I've seen more than I can recall.

   J. Buffett

2. 
   MSA1 | May 11, 2005 04:51am | #10

   Beside, you wouldn't have mentioned, if you didn't really want one anyway :)

   Come on now. I dont need to buy another tool.......I can quit anytime I want to. :)

    

5. 
   BKCBUILDER | May 10, 2005 02:03pm | #7

   I use a laminate trimmer, with offset base, gets closer into corners and has alot better control for me. Straight bit, non-bearing pilot...don't like fussing with depth on the 22's. Lamilube on the opposing edges, although I've been using vasoline on a flux brush for the last 20 years cause lamilube cost money, and vasoline is cheap. Mica-knife and files for edge finishing touches.   Keith