laminate table seam fill & Laminart prod
As i posted in a previous post, i am building a 7ft dia laminate restaraunt table and also a 3 ft lazy susan for the center of the same table. i just finished it but noticed several fine scratches caused by my router when i machined the groove for the bumper molding. this happened on the lazy susan first & i thought i cured the problem by smoothing the base of the router, but to my suprise, i noticed it again on the main table. it seems as though this product is pretty soft compared to some of the other manufactures product i have used. so now i am trying to fix the scratches. i can barely catch a finger nail across them but the pattern is a wood grain & the scratches go across the grain, so i think the customer will consider it unaceptable, also the seem in the center of the table could be better, the seems match up well but i can feel that one side is very slightly higher. I am thinking of using Seamfil. Any feedback on these issues would be appreciated.
Blessings,
Jim Graham
Jim’s Custom Woodworks
Replies
Jim, no chance of my waiting for a 706 KB download, but if you're hoping to salvage your craftsmanship with Seamfil, good luck. Seamfil's a decent product, for filling gaps.
Once you learn how to do better seams, easiest with a Betterly seamer, you quit using Seamfil. One side of the seam proud of the other is usually a problem with adhesive application. What are you rolling it with?
Masking tape works well to separate a router base from your work. Soft, so debris doesn't have much purchase.
Depending on scratch depth, you could try buffing. Difficult to match sheen.
If it's not good enough for you, don't try to sell it to the customer.
PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Edited 7/18/2007 8:52 pm ET by VaTom
Jim, your table looks great! A word of caution about seam fill, It's a quick fix for melamine chips but won't hold up on a work surface such as plastic laminate. You will be just as well off with a wax crayon colour matched to "blend" the scratches but i wouldn't expect too much as far as repairing them, as VaTom suggested, masking tape on your base really helps with those touchy laminates. I have a few nylon guide bearings too, certain brands of p/lam are more prone to surface scratches than others and the "crystal" finish offered by most is definitely the way to go. As for the uneven joint, well, tap it down hard with a piece of hard wood and a hammer. It's most likely caused by your glue application. I was using solvent based contacts for years...you know...old school, I stumbled across 3m water based contact about eight years ago and have never looked back. It's a two coat application that goes on almost like water, it cleans up great with a belt cleaner rubber, has a long open time, long shelf life and most importantly, durability. It doesn't "drag" like the solvent based do and although you pay a premium, it goes three times farther than the spray grade red and four times farther than the yellow. As for your client, well honesty is always best, discount the job if he/she is really not satisfied and chuck it up to a lesson learned. Try back beveling your joints with a block plane or a trim router set-up ( make sure your bits are sharp other wise the plastic will burr ) you will get pro in no time .
I agree with tom and timestamp.
Before you pound on the proud seam, you might want to heat it up some with a heat gun. That might soften the adhesive enough to let the p-lam go flush. If not, reheat and lift that edge far enpough back to block it up and clean some of the excess adhesive from the surface. Heat agian and roll it back down while it is still hot. Be carefull to not get any small bits of junk in there.
Dave