A friend wants me to help him to build a freestanding curved staircase. This happens to be the only type of staircase I have never built. I think I have a grasp on the math involved and most if not all of the construction details. But the biggest question I still have is the process for laminating the stringers.
Do you laminate all of the layers at once or just one at a time? I imagine that you would laminate all at once, but that seems difficuly to handle. What is the trick? How do you hold all the layers together?
Thanks in advance
Kyle
Replies
The author of this thread over at the JLC finish carpentry forum, Stan Foster, used to post here, but I don't believe he frequents this space now.
http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50388
As can be seen in the photos that accompany the posts, Stan takes good time to document his steps.
I'll bet he would be willing to conduct a private dialog with you via email to give detailed tips and techniques, even with photos, to help you along the way.
You'll need many dozens of clamps, or a bag press and vacuum pump.
Depending on your stringer thickness, if you are making something rather substantial such as laminating 2" of ply layers with the outer layers being the only ones that have to be pretty you can use a 1/4" stapler to hold things together if your adhesive is epoxy.
For those of us who don't build stairs as our main gig, I think building in place is essential most times unless the budget and work space allow framing off site, or work space is cramped onsite.
Ply is not as stiff as even an LVL stringer so it takes a pretty beefy desgn to not be bouncy.
You'll go through a bunch of staples!
Ply thickness depends on your curve, but going on the thin side helps avoid problems where ply edges meet--they don't want to lay down flat--might have to add some screws and/or clamps to this area when this happens.
Hardwood laminations to reduce bulk are totally different and I'd really stock up on clamps for that.
As Gene mentioned Stan is the man. He posted some some great threads here on just the topic you are enquiring about and it's possible they are still here, but finding them is the problem.
From memory Stan builds a full size curved stud frame the diameter of his opening or stringer curve, then plots everything on that. The stringers were glued up in single layers ( I think he used to rip the solid material down and laminate them back up) and about a million clamps were needed to pull the material to the curve, clamping onto the open stud work.
Stan if you read this we'd love to see you back.
If you go to his website http://www.stansstairways.com photos/ current projects you'll get an idea of what I mean.
regards
Mark
Yes I agree, He's the man. I have seen his pictures for years and have spent many hours lately searching them and anylizing them.
The question is how to get the peices glued and into the clamps? I can see nailing them together would work, but is that the best way?
Yes I agree, He's the man. I have seen his pictures for years and have spent many hours lately searching them and anylizing them.
The question is how to get the peices glued and into the clamps? I can see nailing them together would work, but is that the best way?
I've not done a staircase with curved stringers, but have done large curved parts in laminated wood for other kinds of projects.
What I have found to work is clamping cauls and an adhesive that is right for the job. I get my glue from Highland Hardware, an Atlanta house with a huge line of goodies.
Plus all my clamps, and all my friends' clamps.
Here is a description of what I use. There are three colors available. Light, medium, and dark, and what you use depends on your species and its shade and color.
"Unibond 800 is a two-part, urea formaldehyde, liquid resin glue. Because of its relatively long open time (30 minutes @ 70°F), rigid glue line, and gap filling properties (up to 0.02"), it is ideal for veneering, bent wood laminations or any vacuum pressing application. Unibond won't cold creep like some PVA glues, so complex veneer projects and curved work are safe.
Since it is water resistant, it makes a first-rate plastic laminate glue in kitchens and bathrooms. After mixing, apply with a short-nap roller or brush. Comes with medium catalyst (think oak & pine.) Not for use under 65°F.
Unibond is also available with dark (think walnut & mahogany) or light (think maple & ash) catalyst."
And that remark about the roller is spot on. When it is time to glue, you require some means of getting adhesive on a large area, and fast. Forget brushes, and use a roller and pan.
A few years ago I researched & found a company that supplied laminated components that were tongue & grooved & the whole assembly pre-shaped, requiring only glue clean-up & some sanding/scraping after glue-up. Two friends of mine who are NOT woodworkers built their own curved hand rails using this product. Can't remember company name & local outlet has closed but product may still be available. Much less work than milling laminations, gluing-up, cleaning up & profiling after.
Lami handrailing kits are available from most every stair parts maker. I've never seen anything similar for stringers. Do you know of a source?
I just finished building a timber frame staircase and wouldn't mind offering some advice. This is my first day on breaktime so you may have to be patient with me.