Had an ah crap moment on a job friday.
Say you took the lath and plaster out of a room and replaced it with drywall.
and you shimmed all the old framing to a nice flat surface but you didn’t bother to notice that you now have 1 1/2″ maybe a hair more, gaps between the hardwood flooring and the walls.
And the drywall is already hung and first coated so it’s not coming down.
Base board was/is 1/2″ thick 5 1/2″ tall and already primed and first coated.
Anyone have any bright ideas besides replacing the base with 3/4″ thick base and 3/4″ qtr round?
Replies
You can probably save almost all of your baseboard. Sounds like you have to remove it anyway to solve this so why not buy 3 1/4 baseboard, rip it, use the top half behind and slightly above the 5 1/2 base to make the top of a double member base. The bottom ripped half would be used behind the bottom of the 5 1/2 base. That would move the original 5 1/2 base out about 1/2 inch. You would still need shoe moulding to finish, but it may be less expensive than buying all new 3/4 inch base.
There may be some thickness problems where the base butts the door trim.
face the 5-1/4 with a 11 or 13/ 16" thick base mould to compliment at about 1-3/4 to 2" tall.. really thick and tall shoe mould..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
wte the floor kid...
:)
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
wte?
and this isn't my screw up perse, I just found it on firday while looking over the job.
I think we'll rip the floor back 2-2 1/2" from the wall on both sides where it's a problem and fill in with a pre-finished peice.
Wet!!!
Kinda takes the sting out of my wise arse comments if I caint sperll...
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
you shouldn't drink so early on a sunday T
nuthing else to do since 'cuse took thier routine 1st round bow out...
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
I don't want to talk about basketball :(
I was wondering where you where headin w/ that one T
I'm fixin' one like that with wainscotting, then base & shoe--to get the coverage and an upgraded look. Might not be in the budget though.
the budget isn't so much of a concern it's only one room, what are you doing around the door casing?
It is a kichen, so I only have one wall to do (no cabinets). The wall I'm doing has one old window that is proud of new rock (jamb will be planed back flush) the 2 new windows will need jamb extensions. No doorways for me.Perhaps you could return wainscotting & cap into the door casing (45 or 90)?
When I do wainscoating, I put a back-band around the doors and windows. So if the top molding of the wainscoat is 1 1/4" deep, the backband around the door would be 1 3/8 or so. It looks really nice. If the band looks to thick compared to the casing, a small transition piece can be put in the corner where they meet. Follow? I don't have any pics, sorry.
I'd build out the bottom of the baseboard if I could get away with it. Done right, it will be fantastic looking, done wrong it will look like what it is, a coverup.
I've thought of a few ways to build out the base and make it look sweet, I'm having trouble with where the base would meet the casing.
The other problem is I do not want to change the trim in only this one room.
I think I'm going to suggest stripping in a piece of flooring perpendicular to rest of the flooring at the two problem walls, Stained to match I do not think it will be all that noticable unless you know where to look.
Could you cut back the casing and install a thick plinth block so the thicker base would have someplace to die into?
Sorta but that would cause it's own problems because the casing would then appear to thin and it's already painted.
Do you think the strip of flooring is a bad idea?
Fitting in a strip of florring shoiuldn't be too hard.
The only real problem I see is having to sand and finish the strip.
Maybe use a different wood, as an accent strip? Make the repair look intentional.
I thought about a band of different color around the perimiter, but the walls are pretty well not even remotely close to square so I doubt I can make it look right.
I'll have the piece prefinished and set it in place, It should be pretty much invisiable when all said and done, but we'll see.
Don't ya just love a challenge?
Good luck. I'm sure you'll do fine.
this is the best kind of challange...
I get to tell the guy what to do, if it works then I can say "see told ya it would work"
and if it doesn't I can blaim him ;)
Oh no, don't accent an oops.
Really, I know.
Garett
Is the floor sagging or the trim placed up too hi?
The opening scene of the movie "Saving Private Ryan" is loosely based on games of dodgeball Chuck Norris played in second grade.
wrong kinda gap.
We ripped out old plaster and lath, the new dw is obviously thinner then the plaster.
Well the carpenter did a great job at shimming the walls flat, BUT he missed that his nice straight wall plane was going to leave the flooring a tad short of the wall. even with base and shoe there would still be a gap.
OHHHH! Gotcha now.
The opening scene of the movie "Saving Private Ryan" is loosely based on games of dodgeball Chuck Norris played in second grade.
If you do change your mind and go with thick base moulding, maybe think about making it extra tall and built up from at least two pieces of base plus the shoe.
Personal opinion but something to consider, if the base needs to be 1 1/2" thick at its, well, base, it needs to be tall to balance that, and it needs to lose thickness as it rises. Don't know the fancy architectural terms, think it's entablature.
I put 9" tall base in a long hallway built up from a 6" tall piece at the "top" covered by a 3 3/4" piece at the bottom (ripped shims from scrap 2x to support the bottom of the second piece), then with shoe. When I first installed the 6" piece, I almost wet my pants 'cause I though it really looked like crap. Too tall, too thin, too "busy." By the time it was done with all the pieces nicely flowing to the floor, I totally changed my mind. Looks "stately" or something.
"Let's get crack-a-lackin" --- Adam Carolla
Add a narrow border to the floor. Sell an upcharge to the customer.
splat
I was gonna say sell them a border too. Almost got it there first!
Not sure what kind of heat is the rooms.... is it hot water baseboard or steam? If yes and the pipes are coming up from the floor now the radiators will be sitting that extra distance away from the wall and into the room. Now you either thicken the base molding as discussed or move the pipes closer to the wall.
No hot water radiators in this case.
Even if there were, I don't think I'd worry to much about them sticking an extra inch or so into the room.
Then it is a good thing you will not have that problem.
Steam radiators probably will not look bad. But hot water baseboard (fin tube) does look "wrong" when they stick out from the wall. They get attached to the wall, so they'd be floppin around so far from the wall.
Any pics yet on how you solved the problem of the floor gap?
nope, DW guys are still finishing up so it won't be fixed for a little while
I was thinking steam uprights not baseboard type hot water, Here in Kansas we don't see many radiators, mostly forced hot air.
When I hear plaster lath walls, I picture steam radiators. What kind of heat was used locally there in old houses before force hot air?
To be honest I don't know
There were quite a few gravity feed furnaces in older homes, In my town, Lawrence KS, I can't think of a single instance where I ran into an old steam or hot water radiator. Not to say there isn't one or two out there somewhere.
wwod or coal stoves