Lathe and plaster repair help needed
We live in a 1924 vintage home. We had to have a pipe replaced under a sink last week and in order to get at it, the plumber took out a chunk of lathe and plaster. This is not inside a vanity, it’s exposed so I need to fix this hole somehow. All I can think to do is to attach a board to the backside by running screws through the plaster and lathe then use patching compound. I’ve also toyed with getting one of those ceiling rosettes to cover the hole and go around the pipe. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Replies
If you can expose a little of the lath by chipping out the plaster, and can find a drywall thickness close to the original plaster thickness, cut that drywall to fit and screw to the lath. Tape and finish the patch. Usually 3/8's or half is the drywall you'll be after.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Thank you. That sound relatively easy.
The work is easy if the sink is outta the way, making the patch disappear is the hard part. Best of luck.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
The sink will be over my head the entire time. Guess I shouldn't stand up quickly to admire my work. Since the patch is under the sink, I don't think it will be too noticeable.
Was the plumber very careful to use his largest, most aggressive blade in his reciprocating saw; or did he just unleash the hammer? ;)
You've already gotten some good advice from others. I'll add that I would recommend using a setting type compound like Durabond rather than a ready-mixed joint compound.
Good luck!
"Preach the Gospel at all times; if necessary, use words." - St. Francis of Assisi
good idea the durabond at least for the first coat. However a reminder, original durabond is near impossible to sand. Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
National Gypsum "Easy Sand" ...
Stay Smooth ... I think?
best stuff there is. Sands like a dream ... feathers great ... never shrinks.
Mix it thick or like soup!
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
Agree with what has been said so far. I generally have found that 3/8 is what you will need. I would add that you need to be careful about any floppy pieces of lath that are left behind, making attachment of the DW tenuous at best. I've come to the conclusion after having done this many times that it is best to cut back horizontally to the studs, cut the exposed lath flush with the stud and nail it to the stud. In the vertical score the plaster with a blade and then carefully chisel to expose 1/2 of the upper and lower pieces of lath. This does two things. It maintains the keys for the plaster that is above and below the hole but also gives you a good surface to which the dw can purchase both at the top and bottom as well as at the sides over the studs. This usually involves making the existing hole bigger but I think in the long run makes for a better and less fitful repair.
Besides drywall there is 'rock lath'. It is similar to drywall, but the paper on the face is specifically designed to accept plaster. I'd think that the better drywall supply houses will have it. And you can repair with an actual plaster mix, which I think looks better than drywall compound.
But under a sink? Maybe it doesn't matter.