Looking for some advice – of course.
I just installed a new lav with new compression type shutoffs on new 1/2″ copper supply lines. One works fine but the other – I can’t seem to get it tight enough to not leak. Took it off, dried it out and reinstalled it, cinching it down as tight as I could again. Leaks worse than ever.
It’s a high quality 1/4 turn ball valve. Could it be that I’ve tightened it so tight that the supply line is deformed? Or do I just need to get a new compression ring? Is there something that could be put around the ring, like teflon or pipe dope that would help seal it?
Any advice from you plumber pros would be appreciated.
Replies
The only thing I can think of is check the ferral for a burr or check the inside of the valve itself where the ferral seats to see if there are any defects.
You would be surprised--recenently installed a gas heater in my garage(love it by the way) and I had compession to thread adapters and two our of 11 I needed had defects in the seats.
Hope this helps.
Mike
" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
You can try a little of the teflon pipe dope. Not to seal it, but to lubricate it to help you get it a little tighter. I put it on the compression ring and also the threads.
I have had pretty good success with that, usually use Rectorseal t2+ or White Seal. I think it helps fill small imperfections as well as lubricate. Some may consider it hack plumbing but those guys would be using sweat fittings (and charging plumber rates).{:-)
Did it come in a blue and yellow "box"? I have had a bad valve from them now and then. Mostly a defect in the "seating" area in the valve.
Cut off the last 1/2" of pipe w/ the ferrule, and try a new valve w/ a new ferrule.
Yeah, it came in a yellow & blue box. Brass Craft. It's a nice valve, 1/4 turn ball. I replaced the whole thing with a new one. Installed it and voila - no leaks. $4 valve thrown out. What a waste.Thanks for all your comments & help.
I hate to tell you this, but the next thing that will start leaking is the packing around the stem of the shutoff knob. They won't leak until you shut it off and turn it back on a time or two, but it is guaranteed to leak. Those things are junk!!
Are there any shutoff valves out there that work? I have never seen a stop valve that didnt leak when you needed to use to replace a faucet or toilet. Thats like "non hardning plumbers putty". I put some 1/4 turn stops in a bath and the homeowner showed em to her boyfriend..she said ..look at these cool valves..as she opened one and it blasted her right in the face...ooops.
I have now gone to the industrial looking ones made by B&G. They are only about $3.00 apiece if you buy in quantity. So far, so good! Available at pro plumbing supply shops.
What I really like about them is that the back end of it fits right into a 1/2" chrome trim cover so it doesn't have to stick out of the wall as far as some of the other brands.
> Are there any shutoff valves out there that work? I have never seen a stop valve that didnt leak when you needed to use to replace a faucet or toilet.
I've used real valves instead of those crappy water stops. More expensive, but you could put a pair ahead of everything in the bathroom to save money.
-- J.S.
You can over-tighten a compression fitting with the ferrel.And my plumber does use 1/4 turn comp. fittings in some lavs.
Getting the ferrule type fittings to not leak can be a challenge.
One important point is to fully seat the fitting onto the pipe (which must be cut off square), then withdraw it SLIGHTLY (1/8-1/16", depending on pipe size) before tightening. This provides a little expansion room between pipe end and fitting to allow for the amount the pipe will "squeeze out" as the nut is tightened against the ferrule.
A little lube of some sort helps too.
happy?
Was the valve made in China or Mexico!