I have 3 new vinyl windows that leak. I was wondering if there are any tricks to determine the source of the leaks?
Two of the windows were installed ~1 year ago, while the 3rd was reinstalled by factory reps ~2 months ago. One of the windows is a stand alone double hung, while the other 2 are combination windows – a fixed window with a factory-mulled double hung on either side.
Last night we received ~3 inches of rain during an hours long downpour accompanied by heavy winds out of the south. All 3 windows are on the south side of the house. I suspect the window manufacturer is going to blame the leaks on incorrect installations, but I don’t believe that’s the case. Unfortunately, I am going to have a hard time duplicating the conditions under which they leaked last night so I will also have a hard time convincing the manufaturer that the windows are defective. Truthfully, it’s possible that the windows leaked due to a faulty installation, but I’d bet money that the installations are fine.
The leak results in water seeping out onto the sill from underneath the window. The rough sills are covered with a layer of ice and water shield that wraps up both sides of the opening ~10 inches. The windows haven’t been trimmed out, so no finish work has been damaged. I can’t help but think back to a FHB or Journal of Light Constr. article in which the author reckoned that up to 10% of all vinyl windows leaked right out of the box. I remember thinking that that couldn’t possibly be true – now I’m beginning to wonder…
In addition to my question above, I am also wondering if anyone has any suggestions on how I should proceed with the window manufacturer?
Thanks in advance!
Sco
Replies
Since the interior trim hasn't been done, it should be realativesly easy to find the source of the leak. Next time it rains (Or you could spray with a hose.), stand on a ladder with a flashlight and peer into the space between the vinyl frame and the rough opening. Pay special attention to the area just below the header.
More details about how the window was installed might be helpful here. What kind of flanges, siding, housewrap, caulk and drip cap were used?
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
Unfortunately I sprayed expanding foam (the kind that is designed for windows and doors) into the gaps around the sides and tops of the windows. So viewing between window and rough opening is no longer possible.
As for the installation - the house was wrapped with typar which was cut and folded out of the opening prior to installation. The windows have a 4.5" molded casing surrounding the entire window and the casing has a flange that is ~1.5" wide. The flange was caulked with silicone and nailed directly to the rough frame .
The flange was then flashed with grace ice and water shield. First we put a 6" wide strip along the bottom flange, then a 6" wide strip along the side flashings so it overlapped the bottom flashing, and finally a 6" wide strip along the top that overlapped both of the side flashings.
The house wrap was then folded back into place so that it covered the grace flashing along both sides and the top. It was stapled into place and all seams were taped with 3m flashing/builders tape.
Finally, vinyl siding was applied roughly 2 months ago.
Let me know if you'd like additional information.
You certainly seem to have plenty of flashing, although the sequence seems a little hinky. Typically the side flanges go outside the housewrap and flashing.
I assume the vinyl flange is serving as a drip cap at the top of the window. Are the connections between the frame/casing/flange seamless and waterproof? The bottom flange should be outside the flashing and housewrap.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
You are right - the vinyl flange serves as a drip cap at the top of the window. Theoretically the connections between the frame/casing/flange are seamless and waterproof, but I'm not necessarily convinced that is so. I did not put the bottom flange outside the flashing and housewrap. I figured there was no way water was getting behind those windows so I needn't worry about leaving it an escape route. Obviously I was wrong. I was more interested in stopping cold air from infiltrating under the windows...
The vinyl windows were "new construction w/ intergral J channel"?
Continuous J channel? or 4 sections open at the corners?
Welded corners? Or mechanical assemble?
Could the iced sill have caused a water/ice dam to force the water back into the window opening?
One comment....silicone is not always the best sealant, it has less adhesiveness to the slick vinyl than other types of available siding caulk.
.................Iron Helix
The vinyl windows were "new construction w/ integral J channel". The J channel is continuous with welded corners.I do fear that the ice and water shield along the bottom flange caused the water to back up into the window opening. I read a couple of articles that suggested leaving that bottom piece of flashing off so that any water that leaked through the window could weep out the bottom. I could not believe that the windows would actually leak and therefore decided to put the bottom flashing in place to cut down on air infiltration. In reference to an article in either FHB or JLC (don't remember where I read it) where the author claimed that ~10% of all vinyl windows leak - how in heck can window manufacturers get away with that kind of quality control??? I suspect that's a bit of an exaggeration, but it certainly makes one wonder...