Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 05, 2000 01:38am | #1

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   Peter,

   Stanley makes the pin catches.
   We have used vinyl V weatherstripping to seal and let old windows slide easier. Balances are nice too.

   KK

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 05, 2000 08:48am | #2

   *Andres,FWIW, many sources on lead contamination in the home point to dust from window sash being a primary source (there was lead in varnishes as well as paint.)I understand that the glide materials/liners can alleviate this source.I do not claim to have any expertise in this area, though. I'll bet if you look, you'll find differing information on this issue.Bob

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 05, 2000 01:12pm | #3

   *Andres,I have the same type of windows on my 1880 era home and I agree with your decision to keep the old windows. I doubt that any of the new windows out there will last 200 years and they certainly won't fit in with the character of your home. I was also interested in the post by KK about pin catches since a couple of mine need to be replaced. I don't have the problem of tight fitting sashes. Mine slide a bit too easilly and I need to make sure that the catch pin is fully seated in the hole so that the sash does not fall suddenly.With regard to wood storms and screens, I made the ones for my own house and now build them for others as a sideline in my cabinetmaking business. I'm not sure that you really need to gasket them to make them effective. They'll certainly be more effective than the aluminum combination units since wood does not conduct heat and cold to the same degree. Also, they look much better on an older house. The only down side, in my opinion, is their weight. They didn't seem all that heavy when I built them in my 30's but, each spring and fall, they now seem heavier as I approach 55.

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 05, 2000 03:24pm | #4

   *Andres/Chip - Here's what you need:b Phelps Company Architectural Specialties (802) 257-4314 Window Spring bolt - Model WSB85Housing dimensions 1 7/8" x 3/8"Overall length 3 3/8"Solid brass, press fits into 3/8" hole.Fresh repaint (lead-safe, as noted) and a little beeswax ought to take care of the friction - you want some or your fingers are at risk.Good luck - Jeff Clarke

2. 
   Andres_Peter | Sep 05, 2000 03:27pm | #5

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   Most of my old house (started in 1800 and still not finished) has old windows. Each sash has two panes and only the lower sash moves. The sash is not hung, no counterweights of any kind. It is latched in position with a spring loaded pin throught the sash that locks into drilled holes in the frame. They are not going to be replaced, they have been reglazed and we are having old fashioned wood "put'em up and take'em down" storms and screens built. The storms will be gasketed for a good seal. I know they will not be as efficient as new windows or inserts but they are the right windows for the house, now I need to make them work.
   1) Does anyone know if the spring loaded pin system is available for purchase new? Some of mine no longer function or have missing parts.
   2) To decrease the friction between the sash and frame I have considered:
   a) wax
   b) frictionless tape (probably not, temporary at best)
   c) Trimming both vertical edges of the sash back out of contact
   with the frame and add teflon glide blocks to the top and bottom
   of each side of the sash. Something similar on the interior
   stops?
   Thanks for your comments, Peter