Hi
I am levelling a concrete slab for 12″ ceramic tile installation. The floor has dips of up to 3/4″ What is the best way to repair this? Can self-levelling mortar be used on dips this big?
Thanks.
meegan
Hi
I am levelling a concrete slab for 12″ ceramic tile installation. The floor has dips of up to 3/4″ What is the best way to repair this? Can self-levelling mortar be used on dips this big?
Thanks.
meegan
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Replies
There are self-leveling compounds that will work. Not sure I've ever seen them referred to as mortar, which implies a product for setting tile or brick. HD and Lowes sell bags of leveling products where they stock sakrete, and there are floor fill products in the carpet & tile department. Some set very quickly, some take overnight.
Are the dips where the old flooring was demo'd, or is the floor that wavy?
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
HD has Custom's LevelQuick. It is expensive but works well. It sets up very quickly so be prepared with all of your tools, water, etc. nearby. Measure the water very carefully. I have done it alone but it is advisable to get a helper. Be sure you seal up every crack, gap, and threshold or the stuff will leak out. Staple sill seal on the walls around the perimeter of the room as an expansion gap -- if you skip this step then the self leveling cement or tile could pop off the floor during seasonal expansion and contraction -- it is called "tenting."
Put two coats of the recommended primer on the cement floor to improve adhesion and so that the concrete won't suck the moisture from the self-leveling cement, thereby preventing it from flowing freely.
Did I mention to use the primer and mix and move quickly?
I mix it 100 pounds (2 bags) at a time in a plastic garbage can with a good 1/2 inch drill. Measure the water into a bucket and then mark a line on the bucket so that you can mix the batches quickly. I fill another plastic garbage can with water and scoop out the water with the pre-marked bucket so that I can mix and pour quickly. You have to move fast and plan your pour so that you can make your exit.
Billy
Billy's on the right track. 100# may be more than you need, and may be more than you can handle at one time. Some fillers are rated to go from a feather edge to 1/2" or something, and others have a minimum thickness of 1/2 or 3/4", so be sure to read the specs.
I don't think Billy mentioned enough times that some products set fast, so have everything ready before you start to mix. It's not like sakrete or thinset, once you feel it start to harden, it's too late. And be careful wiht the water to powder ratio ... it's very easy to add too much water and get a soupy mess. And put 80% of the water in the bucket first, then the powder. If you try to add water to a bucket full of powder, you're screwed.
Anyway, if the stuff you buy can go to a featrher edge, then you could mix small batches and apply more than one layer. Just be sure to let the first layer set enough so that you don't disturb it while troweling on the next layer.
You can mix it in a plastic bucket, and when it sets hard just flex the bucket and it will flake off.
Did I mention that it sets quickly? if the bag says the working time is 15 minutes, then you better be done in 10.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Edited 7/15/2004 9:54 pm ET by Ed Hilton
Here's a thread where a guy pours self leveling cement (SLC) for the first time (over radiant heat on the floor). It has plenty of advice and pictures to help you along. read through the thread several times before you start your project.
http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?threadid=3710&perpage=15&pagenumber=3
Billy
Billy ... I think you meant that for Meegan ... and the John Bridge site is a good one for tile info.Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
You're right -- I mistakenly hit "reply" to your post. Thanks Ed!
Billy