FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Lifting a building onto a slab foundation

Bananacreampie | Posted in Construction Techniques on November 13, 2020 02:24am

I have a 10 x 20 foot shed with no floor/foundation.  My excavator friend thought he could jack it up, dig out from underneath, frame in a trough, fill with concrete/ level, and then set the shed back down on its new foundation.  After jacking it up he decided that was going to be harder than anticipated and so he convinced me to let him build be a concrete slab directly beside the shed and then move the shed onto it.  I agreed.

Concrete slab is made (it’s actually like an upside down soap dish: a trough was framed in a big box with a slanted pile of packed sand in the middle slanted up to the plateau which was 4 inches shorted that the top of the frame.  Sheets of metal were added.  Took about 5 cubic yards of concrete.  It has cured for three weeks and the frame has been removed.  

Initially he wanted to run straps around the building, lift it up with his backhoe and set it down on the slab.  Instead I have hired our local tow truck driver.  He’s the one who moved it up to the top of my property in the first place and set it gingerly down on 8 concrete blocks ~ I thought that was pretty amazing really.

Question A)  Should I rethink the moving operation?  Are there any disadvantages to having his use his flat bed truck as opposed to picking it up from straps?  Or vica versa?  I figure either way, there will be some finessing trying to make sure it is sitting on there straight.

Anyhoo, this is all supposed to happen on Saturday; and I wondering what all I don’t know that I need to know to make sure this goes well.  For example, I saw a youtube video where a guy was turning a screened in porch into a heated room.  He screwed “expandible screws” down through a 2×4 into the concrete to create sill.  My sills are 8×8 creosote beams. 

Question B)  How will I affix them to the slab once it’s been set down.  What will I need to buy that will be big enough to drill down through the sill and the concrete.  What kind of screw/bolt will I need to screw it down with?

The dude on the video also used a roll of blue foam insulation that he rolled down (without affixing it with screws or adhesive) underneath his 2×4 sill.  The sill kept it in place; but I can’t hold down 50 feet of rolled foam whilst the shed is being lowered.

Question C)  It seems to me there should be something between the concrete slab and the creosote beam.  But what do I use?  And how do I get it to stay there while the building is being lowered?  Is there a squishy material that I can squeeze out of tube or spray that will act as an adhesive or to block drafts or whatever one might put under a sill?

The back sill got ripped off when the building was being moved to my property and there appears to be a little rot at the butt ends of the sills at the open end (there were only 3 sills, the fron of the building is just two verticla beams resting on the end of the long side sills; with nothing across the front of the shed for a sill because there had been a barn door there.

Question D)  I’m thinking it would be easier to replace the broken sill in the back and the butt ends of the long sides AFTER the shed has been moved.  It can be jacked up on a nice level surface, one end at a time; and nice accurate measurements can be determined as to what size sill is needed to replace what needs replacing. (As opposed to right now while it is teetering on a bunch of cement blocks completely lopsided.  Is this good logic? 

Presently there are two 12×8 creosote beams running across the shed from side to side bolted to the long side sills (It is under these beams that the flatbed truck was able to simply slide underneath and pick it up.)  I’m envisioning, once it has been place on the concrete slab, to jack it up underneath these cross beams ~ first one end, and replace the sill.  Then jack up underneath the front cross beam to replace to bad front ends.  

Questions E)  Does that make good sense?  Just to complicate things even more, I’d actually like to use one of these cross beams as the replacement beam for the back sill, it’s exactly the right length; but is a little wider then required.  But I can’t imagine that being a problem.  Is there something else I should/could use as the replacement sills?

Question D)  What else am I missing that I haven’t thought of?

Oh, one more thing.  I would like to turn on of the windows into a door.  Can I cut through the sill beneath the window to build a jamb that goes all the way down to the concrete floor?  Or does that weaken the integrity of anything and so I should leave the sill running the full length of the wall and if I want a door then I just have to step up and over the sill to get in and out.

Thank you so much for sharing your feedback to my questions. It’s a scary job and I appreciate all the help and support I can get!

Take care,
Karen

Reply

Replies

  1. User avater
    unclemike42 | Nov 13, 2020 08:14am | #1

    Make sure the grading around the slab allows the driver to get safely on and off the slab with the shed.

  2. User avater
    unclemike42 | Nov 13, 2020 08:16am | #2

    If you want to secure to the slab, you might want to pre-drill the 8x8 sill before the move, and then drill through into the slab. then clean out the hole, and epoxy some threaded rod to use to secure the sill (and the structure) to the slab.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Build a Transom Above a Stock Door

A decorative transom fills in the space between a stock door and the home's 9-ft. ceiling, saving the cost of a custom door.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • Monitor Both Outdoor and Indoor Air Quality
  • What You Need to Know About Installing Steel Siding
  • Podcast 570: PRO TALK With Project Manager Jeremy Hess, Part 1
  • Podcast 569: Bath Fan Installs, Sunroom Trim, and Basement Control Layers

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

BOOKS, DVDs, & MERCH

Shop the Store
  • Pretty Good House
    Buy Now
  • Code Check Building 4th Edition
    Buy Now
  • 2023 Tool Guide
    Buy Now
  • 2022 Fine Homebuilding Archive
    Buy Now
  • Shop the Store

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 316 - July
    • Timber-Framed Solar Canopies
    • Build a Transom Above a Stock Door
    • Understanding Toilet Design and Efficiency
  • Issue 315 - June 2023
    • How to Craft a Copper Roof
    • 5 Lessons from Building in a Cold Climate
    • The Advantages of Cellular PVC Siding
  • Issue 314 - April/May 2023
    • 7 Options for Countertops
    • Tool Test: Wood-Boring Bits
    • Critical Details for Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 313 - Feb/March 2023
    • Practical System for a Seismic Retrofit
    • Fine Homebuilding Issue #313 Online Highlights
    • Practical System for a Seismic Retrofit
  • Issue 312 - Dec 2022/Jan 2023
    • Tool Test: Cordless Tablesaws
    • Gray-Water System for a Sustainable Home
    • Insulate a Cape Roof to Avoid Ice Dams

Fine Homebuilding

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences

Taunton Network

  • Green Building Advisor
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Fine Gardening
  • Threads
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Copyright
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2023 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Shop the Store

  • Books
  • DVDs
  • Taunton Workshops

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in