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ART;
HERE ARE SOME THING It’ve DONE WITH MY 2 1/2 CAR GARAGE WITH HIGH CEILINGS.
– WENT TO 300 WATT BULBS IN THE FIXTURES
– MOUNTED TWO POWER STRIP OUTLETS ON THE CIELING POWERED BY THE GARAGE DOOR OPENER OUTLETS/ REACH UP WITH A BROOM HANDLE TO JOG SWITCH
– HUNG 4 – 4FT FLORESCENTS FIXTURES FROM CIELING I/ UTILITY CHAIN – OFF SCREW IN HOOKS. PLACED OVER MY WORK BENCH. ACROSS THE BACK OF GARAGE – 16 FT LONG LOW AS NOT TO THROW SHADOWS. SEARS PUTS THESE ON SALE 2X / YR. 10 BUCKS (?) I/ BULBS. PLUGGED INTO POWER STRIPS
– I USE 4 CLAMP ON LIGHTS VARIOUSLY A MOVE THEM AROUND AS WORK DICTATES (200 WATTS BULBS)
GOOD LUCK
Replies
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ART;
HERE ARE SOME THING It've DONE WITH MY 2 1/2 CAR GARAGE WITH HIGH CEILINGS.
- WENT TO 300 WATT BULBS IN THE FIXTURES
- MOUNTED TWO POWER STRIP OUTLETS ON THE CIELING POWERED BY THE GARAGE DOOR OPENER OUTLETS/ REACH UP WITH A BROOM HANDLE TO JOG SWITCH
- HUNG 4 - 4FT FLORESCENTS FIXTURES FROM CIELING I/ UTILITY CHAIN - OFF SCREW IN HOOKS. PLACED OVER MY WORK BENCH. ACROSS THE BACK OF GARAGE - 16 FT LONG LOW AS NOT TO THROW SHADOWS. SEARS PUTS THESE ON SALE 2X / YR. 10 BUCKS (?) I/ BULBS. PLUGGED INTO POWER STRIPS
- I USE 4 CLAMP ON LIGHTS VARIOUSLY A MOVE THEM AROUND AS WORK DICTATES (200 WATTS BULBS)
GOOD LUCK
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William,
Typing a post in all caps is considered the same as shouting. Bad form.
*Flouresents give the best even light distribution and are probably the cheapest. I have a shop with a 25' high ceiling. I put in track lighting for task' lighting. You can aim 2 or more lights at each tool giving very good light without any shadows. You can use flouresent for ambient light to minimize the fairly expensive track lighting. Also if you want more light at a different place later or you move a tool you just re-aim your track lighting. I would stay away from halo gens. depending on the bulb type you use, the get really really hot. I don't think I would take the chance of igniting any sawdust with these bulbs. Try to avoid plighting with anything other than flouresents for the same problem. Sawdust will collect on the flat surface and present a fire hazard.By the way, for safteys sake, keep your lighting on different electrical circuits than your tools. You don't want a tool to pop a breaker and leave you in the dark not knowing where your hands are in relation to a spinning blade..... need say more. much.good luckTim
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Something you may not have considered is paint. You can gain alot of light just by painting the walls a light color.I've seen it work aircraft hangars. Do the walls and floors and the reflected light brightens up even the darkest of corners. And it also cuts down on shadows.
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Thanks for the info. I had neglected to consider the combination of a halogen lamp and sawdust.
On all other accounts we're in complete agreement.
Thanks Again
Art
*I had planned to insulate the shop with white plastic-backed insulation for this very reason.
*My shop is just alittle bigger than a 2 car garage. I've only got 9' ceilings. I've got six fluorescent "shop lights" that work fine. I've also installed two salvaged 300W halogen floods up above the ceiling joists to light up my work bench. Both are switched at the bench. I've used these only a couple of times for real close work and couldn't stand the heat. The only reason I installed them is that I can't stand to throw anything out.
*He WAS shouting. Poor man lost his hearing in his 2 1/2 car garage workshop and now yells all the time.
*Much truth to the white walls statement. I did my 2 room shop [9 ft ceilings, painted hi gloss white] with a whole bunch of 4 ft fluorescents with 2 x 40W bulbs each. I put receptacles flush mount in the ceiling with switches on the wall, and plugs for the fixtures, 2 or 3 fixtures to a plug. I have reflectors on each fixture; they help but collect fine sawdust on top. I did 4 ft fixtures because they are cheap initially, and cheap to replace bulbs when I nail them with the end of a board. For more light, I have a 2 head halogen light on a collapsable stand which I use about 1 or 2x/yr inside, 3-4x/yr outside, and a fair amount for heat to cure epoxy or JB Weld.
*Poor chap.Maybe we should take up a collection to get him a hearing aid ?: )
*When I did the lighting in my shop I insisted on electronic ballast flouresent fixtures (to eliminate the flicker as they cycle at a higher frequency and reduce eye fatigue) and full spectrum bulbs for better color vision.Forget the halogens, my local buddy in the electrical supply business I buy from told me they were no good because of bulb life (If you want information of lumens and light intensity for specific tasks contact your electrical company and ask to talk to one of their engineers. Right now they are very concerned about conservation of electrical use so that they don't have to build new generators, dams or redo their transmission lines.
*The four foot shop lights are real cheap but I never use them any more because changing the bulbs is a real bitch especially if the fixture is hanging on chains. I like the eight foot two tube fixtures screwed to the ceiling, you seldom have to replace the bulbs but its easy to do. Track lighting sounds like a good idea for a shop.
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I'm putting the finishing touches on a 2 story gambrel roofed barn. I'm at the stage of trying to figure out the best way to illuminate the second floor, which will be a wood working shop.
The particulars: 36' I 52' space, gambrel roof, floor-to-peak of 17'
The question: Aside from code of 3W/s. ft, I'm looking for recommendations on luminens and types of lighting (halogen, fluorescent, floods, task lighting, etc) which would best suit a wood working situation.