I have some recessed lights with the correct halogen bulbs well away from insulation that after 5 minutes or so decide to turn off. Is it possible this is a problem with the way I wired them? Maybe the attic is too hot causing the lights to turn off? Bad switch?
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Does the breaker trip or do they come back on after a while?Breaker trips,the circuit's overloaded.If they come back on,it could be the thermal overload.When it goes off (carefully ) unscrew the bulb,check for voltage from the pin to ground and then pin to socket.If you have nothing,turn the circuit breaker off,pull the reflector down,pull the side of the j-box off,open up the switched leg joint,turn the breaker back on,and check for voltage again.Have it now?Turn the breaker off ,isolate the thermal overload leads ,check them with a continuity tester (ohms scale of multimeter).No continuity?It's the thermal overload opening the circuit.Is the overload too sensitive or is the fixture too hot?You have to figure it out from there.If you find at the j-box that you're not getting voltage up from the switch,turn the breaker off,pull the switch out,turn the breaker back on,check for voltage.If the switch is opening up under heat replace it before it causes a fire.
Most likely the thermal overload is kicking out. The previous message pretty much covered checking for other problems so follow them first. You have pretty much eliminated the heat being trapped on the output side. Insulation enclosing the attic side , oversized lamps and high hats installed in cathedral are common causes of these fixtures running hot, sometimes dangerously so.
Check the label/s carefully. It is not just the wattage of the bulb that matters. Type physical size and configuration of the bulb are important. These specifications should be listed on a label. Read them carefully and take heed. The irony is that these labels often fall out on their own or are destroyed by the first overpowered lamp installed. Most larger manufacturers will have a catalog or spec sheets available if you can identify the fixtures maker and model number.
The reason I mention this is that you are using a halogen bulb. Most high hat fixtures are not rater for these bulbs, lamps in electrospeak. Halogen lamps run hotter than most others. Make sure that the specific design and type of lamp is compatible with your fixtures.
Try a regular bulb and see if it helps. Don't despair if it doesn't. Overlamping or age may have weakened the thermal overload. If the thermal can be taken out without mulching the ceiling and a replacement can be found you may be able to save some work. Many fixture manufacturers will not sell these parts for liability reasons but you might be able to get replacements through an electronics supply house. I have had luck getting these from Allied Electronics.
If replacement of the thermal isn't reasonable replace the whole fixture. If you get an IC rated fixture you can help seal your buildings envelope by stuffing in extra insulation. Getting the old fixture out of the way is often the most difficult job. If you can get old work cans, best if also available in IC rated version, they are often worth looking for. They are particularly easy to install.
Be careful. Have some fun.
Maybe a cheap and quick way to find out if it's the thermal overload...
Get a tall stepladder. Set the ladder below one of the lights. Put a strong fan on the top of the stepladder, aimed directly up into the light. Get the fan to about a foot away from the light, and make sure it blows strongly right up into the light.
Now, with the fan running, does this one turn off as usual ?
Whattaya mean, I can't be three people at once ???!!?