Looking for options trimming out egress window
Hey everyone, I’m looking for some thoughts on how I can address a problem I’m having trimming an egress window I recently had installed. I’m sure the answer is out there but I couldn’t find it with a search. So I had a 48″w x 55″h egress window installed in an existing basement bedroom in place of the existing 48″w x 24″h window. The installers roughed in the window with 2-by lumber. My plan for finish was to build a box out of 1-by lumber inside the rough opening and then trim with standard 2 3/8″ casing. The problem I’m having is that the hole they cut in the drywall is in places 2 1/8″ back from the surface of the rough opening meaning I’ll have a gap between the edge of the trim and the casing if I proceed as planned. So my options as I see them are patch the drywall to bring it flush with the rough opening, use a wider trim piece, or go with a wider reveal (like a 1/2”) between the casing and the finish 1-by box.
The right solution seems to be just patch and paint the drywall. However, here’s the complication. There’s a sort of mural painted on this wall and fixing that would be difficult at best. So with that in mind I’m looking for opinions or thoughts on other possible solutions.
Replies
intech
take a post some pictures with the distances somehow scaled out so we know what it is you have in living color.
Way more easier to solve the problem when looking at it.
However, after the fact is always a little late to figure out what to do.
That said, someone here can certainly come up with an answer.
Initially, I would suggest stepping out this box, which is a jamb extension the way I understand it.
Step it out a couple time to drag that casing over and it'll add visual impact as well.
Nothing like a couple shadow lines to make something real sweet.
Just don't mention that can't be done.
If you can live with losing some of the mural, tape off a straight line (test first if mural will survive the tape), leaving minimum space for compound repair. Paint a box around the window, then you can use the casing that matches the original.
You can get wider, heavier casing that has the character of the original casing.
Sorry been out of town for a few days
Sorry I didn't get back to you guys sooner, been out of town for a few days. Below is a picture that shows the current rough opening with the 2x10 roughed in frame and the space from that to the cut in the drywall. I've put a builder's square in place to give context on the scale here.
View Image
Well, I'll be..............
Must be harder down there where you live to cut a straight line. Please send your contractor my condolences on his loss of sight.
But to the matter at hand-
How much if any does that 2x10 fall short of the surface of that drywall?
To me, you should be able to extend the jamb to the face of that framing, then step it back towards the drywall. This should allow you to fully cover that wavy ragged cut with the outside edge of your casing.
The 2x10's do not come flush to the drywall surface at all. It's all green pressure treated so either I have to paint it or cover it. My plan was to use 1x10 finish pine or oak to build jambs all the way around that would come flush to the drywall. I'll look into the though of stepping it out, I'm not familiar with the concept so I've got some research to do. Thanks.
Oh and yeah no clue why it's so hard to cut a straight line with a sawzall.